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Category Archives: Cornwall

English Inspiration

10 Thursday Oct 2019

Posted by pat in Art, Art Museums & Exhibitions, Bath, Burnham-on-Crouch, Cornwall, Cornwall, England, Gardens, Grasmere, Lake District, Lake District, London, paintings, sketching, The New Forest, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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We’ve just returned from three weeks in the UK, our first visit in 3 years.  For Mike, it was a whirlwind tour of meeting up with friends and family, trying to catch up with all the news and rehash old stories. I love that part of these trips, but for me, my goal was searching for enough painting resources and inspiration to sustain me in to the future.

These trips give me the space and freshness that I rely on for months in my studio work.  Often I revisit my photos years later, and find a new vision that I hadn’t seen before. There is something about having the time to explore an unfamiliar environment, away from the daily routine.  You see things in a different way. Connections are made, insights discovered.

Whether on country strolls, or museum visits in the cities, it re-charges me for months to come.  This time I took close to 500 photos! But often I just walked and breathed in the images.

We started in Kent, in the Southeast corner of Great Britain and found a great bolt hole between Dover and Canterbury.  It was a beautiful resort, the Broome Park Hotel. Although promoted as a “Golf Resort and Wedding Venue” tucked in to the countryside, I found glorious walks in the early morning across the surrounding fields with no one else around except the birds and sheep. We had a “lodge” on the grounds with two bedrooms a living room and a washer and dryer!  A real bonus for European travel.  And we could walk to the pub in the main manor house at night along the fields for dinner. It was a mid-week bargain, and we could catch up on sleep.

Revived, we found time for a wonderful visit with family in Essex,

and joined up with old sailing mates at the Southampton Boat Show.

And then it was back to the countryside – The New Forest and the Montagu Arms.  The wild horses roam the streets in this unenclosed pastureland, heathland and forest, both in the countryside and through the towns and villages. On one of our very first trips to England together, Mike took me to The New Forest as a special treat, and I still love it.  Perfect weather that first week also helped. Mid-70s and sunny!  Could this really be September in England?

A quick stop at one of my favorite spots, Bath, then we were on our way to Cornwall and St. Ives, a north coast town that is now home to Tate St. Ives Art Museum. It was a challenge to park in the hilly, seaside town and make it down cobblestone streets with luggage in tow to our Inn, The Lifeboat. But when we got there it was worth the challenge. Reception told us it is a right of passage to deal with parking and luggage in St. Ives.  We succeeded, barely, but the reward was a room facing the sea right on the front.

We loved it here.  It was filled with galleries and art for me, and boats and pubs for Mike. It is a huge haven for artists with The Tate in the center of it all.  The exhibitions at the museum focus on the history of many local artists who came here during WWII to escape the bombings in London, and ended up starting a fresh new art colony. The tradition continues with studios tucked everywhere, many of them open during this autumn “Arts Week”.


Mike found a fabulous place in the backstreets of St.Ives, “Olives”, and we did a “lunch” of scones and cake and tea that was to die for. There were winding roads all through the town filled with many surprises, and we often just wandered, seeing where the twisted narrow roads would take us. It was a joy to explore, always looking for a new sea view for dinner.

Finally, we went down to the south side of Cornwall to visit and catch up with more family, and rediscover one of our favorite spots, Charlestown. I actually drove that day from St. Ives to Charlestown on those teeny tiny roads, roundabouts, and confusing lanes through the Cornish country. But we made it without a scratch!

The weather was changing, and fierce winds blew us along our walks from our Inn down the lane to the sea.

We then headed up the west side of England in the rain, across Bodmin Moor

and after a stop in the Cotswolds at a familiar site…The Hare and Hounds…

we were off to the north and The Lake District.

We had four days in the Wordsworth Inn in Grasmere and although the weather finally turned showery and cloudy after over a week of sunshine (very un-British) we didn’t mind. It’s the grey country, after all. And it’s what makes everything so lush and green.

I had brought my rain coat and “brollie” and managed to walk every day, visiting old haunts and discovering new inspiration.

After the best break ever, we headed back down south through Cambridge, home of one of my favorite art museums, The Fitzwilliam, and a room with a view of the punts on the River Cam.

Then on to visit friends at Burnham-on-Crouch, Mike’s old sailing hub,

and finally the last 5 days in London.  Phew!

London meant The National Gallery, The National Portrait Gallery, and The Royal Academy.

We did Notting Hill, Piccadilly, Kensington and Hyde Park…and I even took a rainy afternoon to see a matineee of “Downton Abbey”.  What could be more appropriate.

We even managed to fit in Sunday Roast with friends in the center of London.

Finally Heathrow, and home! To paint…where to even begin?

Now starts the time of looking for connections, sorting through images, thinking of patterns and context of not just the visual images but also the stories that connect us all.  The depth and underlying currents are just as important to me as the visual beauty of our world. Country lanes and city streets with the background sounds of Brexit on the news.  I am already looking forward to the studio season.

Cornish Footpath

23 Saturday Nov 2013

Posted by pat in Cornwall, Travel, Uncategorized

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Charlestown, foot paths

Early one morning this past summer, I woke up and had a lovely breakfast in the pub downstairs from our room at The Rashleigh Arms.

Our pub with rooms, The Rashleigh, where we stay in Cornwall.

Our pub with rooms, The Rashleigh, where we stay in Cornwall.

I decided it was time to walk off some of this toast and marmalade, so as My Beloved Brit went upstairs to shower and get ready for the day, I headed towards the nearest footpath at the end of the village of Charlestown in Cornwall.

The bottom of the town near the sea, where the footpath up the cliff begins. Photos by me.

The bottom of the town near the sea, where the footpath up the cliff begins. Photos by me.

It was time for a climb.

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I thought this week was the perfect time to share these pretty pictures.

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Back down again.  Another splendid UK footpath.

I am thankful for these splendid walks through the English countryside.  Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

 

Summer’s End in Cornwall

23 Friday Aug 2013

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, entertainment, Travel, United Kingdom

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Bank Holiday, beaches, Charlestown, labor day

The last few weeks of August the people of England flood to the beaches of Cornwall.  It is warm by their standards (in the 70s), and you see them with their pails and shovels and beach chairs, children in tow, going down to the rocky, seaweed strewn beaches.

IMG_9014This is in Charlestown in Cornwall on the southwest coast of England, a seafaring town with ancient ships and lovely beaches. And the British flock there with their families in August for the last gasp of summer.

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Monday is England’s “bank holiday”, comparable to our Labor Day in the states. The end of summer.  Bittersweet.

What to pack for a vacation in Great Britain?

01 Thursday Aug 2013

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, London, Peak District, Scotland, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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launderette, packing

What should you pack for a vacation in Great Britain? Layers. And more layers.

Down to the sweater layer in Asford in the Water in the Peak District. Photo by My Beloved Brit.

Down to the sweater layer in Ashford-in-the-Water in the Peak District on a summer morning going for a walk. Photo by My Beloved Brit.

It is positively the only way to go. The thing about England is, no matter what the weather is at the moment, it is sure to change shortly. And it is almost impossible to predict the temperatures for any given season. When we were in Scotland last summer, everyone assured us it would be damp and chilly.  It was sunny, bright and in the 80s–for days!

A very warm, sunny day in the gardens at Balmoral in Scotland in June. Photo by me.

A very warm, sunny day in the gardens at Balmoral in Scotland in early June. Photo by me.

Very unusual, yes. But we have learned in the UK to expect the unexpected and pack accordingly.

The crowds head to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen on the Diamond Jubilee weekend June 2012. Photo by me.

The crowds head to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen on the Diamond Jubilee weekend June 2012. Notice the light jackets, and brollies in hand. Photo by me.

Now, granted, we tend to go for long stretches of time…sometimes 5 or 6 weeks (we have a lot of family and friends to visit).  But the basics are the same.

1.  Don’t pack for a year.

There are laundrette’s all over the UK, and it is a great way to pass an hour or two with the locals and catch up on your reading. You can easily go online, google the town you will be in, and “laundrettes”, or ask at your B&B or hotel.  They will know. Service wash means the laundrette will do your wash for you and you can pick it up later or the next day.  Self Service means you do it yourself, which is what we do. Usually we are driving, and at the beginning of the trip we stop at a grocery store and get a small bottle of laundry detergent. Or the laundrettes usually have them available for purchase. Our detergent stays with us for the trip and makes it even easier to do laundry on the road.

Our favorite laundrette in Burnham on Crouch, England. Photo by me

Our favorite laundrette in Burnham on Crouch, England. Photo by me

2. Make it easy and comfortable

Pack things that are wrinkle free if you don’t want to iron, although many hotels now have facilities to iron.  I usually bring a pair of jeans for those country walks, and a couple of pairs of lighter washable slacks–one that is dressier for dinners out.  Instead of shirts, I bring knits–t-shirts for me, polos for him, and light, washable cotton sweaters (jumpers in Brit speak). My Beloved Brit always likes a few buttoned collared shirts of the wash and wear variety for when we go out. I bring one or two washable wrinkle free skirts just in case it gets really warm.  MBB does bring one pair of shorts just in case.  But we find even when all his friends have shorts on, we might have two or three layers of long pants, t-shirts and jumpers on. MBB calls it being unclimatized. We’ve never regretted not packing a bathing suit.

A fine, sunny day in England and the shorts have appeared. Photo by me

A fine, sunny day in England and the shorts have appeared. Photo by me

3.  Outerwear and an umbrella

Bring a scarf or two for around the neck, and preferably a rain-resistant jacket (or coat depending on the season) with a little warmth to it, just in case. I also usually pack a light, packable small umbrella.  It is England after all. Rain comes and goes. When I did the Diamond Jubilee week in London last year, it rained lightly off and on over the weekend.  I was fine with my layers, my little “brollie” and a smile.  It was a great time.

Jubilee weekend.  Brollies are up for a moment but the crowds don't care.  Notice the layers of clothing. Photo by me

Jubilee weekend. Brollies are up for a moment but the crowds don’t care. Notice the layers of clothing. Photo by me

4. Shoes.

Always a dilemma.  First and foremost is comfort.  England is known to be a wonderfully walkable place, so plan on taking walks in the country, through villages and footpaths, or long rambles around London.

My Beloved Brit and his cousins walking in to Foey, Cornwall for Fish 'n' Chips.  Notice the English women have sandals on! Photo by me.

My Beloved Brit and his cousins walking in to Fowey, Cornwall in search of Fish ‘n’ Chips. Notice his English cousins have sandals on! Photo by me.

There’s usually public transportation, but walking is how you really get to see a country, and get a sense of the natives.  I usually opt for two pairs of very comfortable walking shoes that I can wear with socks, one pair a bit dressier to wear with the nice slacks. I also like a good pair of sandles in the summer for those days when you just feel like wiggling your toes in the sun, and to wear with my skirt.

My Beloved Brit actually has shorts on again as we check in to our room in England. Notice the limited amount of luggage. Photo by me.

My Beloved Brit actually has shorts on again as we check in to our room in England. Notice the limited amount of luggage. There’s also always one large duffel for sailing gear. Photo by me.

5. For those special occasions.

Dressed for a wedding reception at a sailing club.

Dressed for a wedding reception at a sailing club.

 

Then usually I bring one nice dress, often a very packable light knit, and a sweater I can wear with it for cold evenings.

For most restaurants and gatherings we go to , this is as dressy as we need.  I bring my pearls and good earrings in case it gets really dressy.

MBB does bring a solid colored sports coat and one tie, just in case there is a sailing race dinner at a club that requires it.

 

 

 

And that is pretty much it.  You start out on a summer morning with a pair of cotton slacks, a t-shirt, a sweater and maybe a rain jacket with a scarf around your neck.  By noon hopefully you’re down to the t-shirt, but more likely you are at sweater level.  And of course just when you think you have it all figured out, it changes and the temps are in the 80s for five days in a row.

Holidaymakers in Charlestown, Cornwall.  There were kids swimming nearby. Photo by me.

Holiday makers in Charlestown, Cornwall. There were kids swimming nearby. Photo by me.

No matter.  A laundrette makes it all workable, and no one cares if you wear the same three outfits over and over.  Just pick what you love and what you are comfortable with.  It’s a snap.

An early morning walk on a summers day in England. Photo by me.

An early morning walk on a summer’s day in England. Photo by me.

And then My Beloved Brit needs to bring all his sailing gear–boots, foul weather gear, thermals–which is a whole other story, and why we try to pack so light otherwise…

MBB dressed in many waterproof layers for sailing. Photo by me.

MBB dressed in many waterproof layers for sailing. Photo by me.

 

Tides

21 Tuesday Aug 2012

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, Travel, United Kingdom

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boats, Charlestown, Cornwall, Ships, tides

For such a very well-mannered country, the tides of England are pretty darn dramatic. Especially in Cornwall. It was so very evident wherever we went on the southwest coast.

The beautiful tall ships tucked in a safe harbour in Charlestown

But nowhere were the large tides more obvious than in Charlestown, where the big, old ships are berthed.

You might see a lovely bay, or small port, with the boats floating about, and when you came back a couple of hours later there is nothing but mud, and the poor boats are left high and dry.

The tide comes in at the entrance to the protected harbour at Charlestown. Photo by me

 

Poor boats left in the mud when the tide goes out. Photo by me

The change in sea level is very steady and goes from very high to very low in about six hours.

..and the tide goes out

Luckily the Brits know all about the sea, and have devised clever hideaways to protect their ships from the outgoing tides — like the lock system here in Charlestown.

The ships are carefully protected during low tide behind the locks. Photo by me

It’s a lovely feat of engineering that pumps the water in to the holding area if needed as the tide goes out. Someone actually closes the locks on the tides schedule. I imagine he keeps his alarm clock well maintained.

Water is pumped in to keep the ships high but not dry as the tide goes out. Photo by me

The system keeps the boats safe and protected no matter the time of day.

All tucked in for low tide. Photo by me

And if there are no walls to hold it back…

A beach in Cornwall near Carlyon Bay. Photo by me.

…the tide may just take a bit of England with it out to sea.

A room with a pub…and a view

09 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by pat in Cornwall, Cornwall, England, Travel, Uncategorized

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Cornwall, England, Inns, January specials, travel

This time of year I get notices from some of our favorite haunts in England advertising their winter specials.  It doesn’t tempt My Beloved Brit at all to go over in winter, but I always imagine tea & scones by a cozy fire and walks on quiet lanes dusted with snow. That of course is after several tours of the art galleries of London.

Winter lane St. Tinney Farm, photo by Phil Windley, wikipedia commons

St. Austel Brewery just sent us their newsletter with a gorgeous array of January deals in 15 of their wonderful small Hotels or Inns, most of which are in Cornwall.  We have stayed at their historic Charlestown inn, The Rashleigh Arms, which is within sight of the Tall Ships of Charlestown Harbour.

The Rashleigh Arms in Historic Charlestown, Cornwall. Photo from their website

Looking down the list of specials, I can find many that I would love to try. At the Rashleigh, we found the rooms were cozy, and the large English breakfast in the pub downstairs unbeatable. At the very least, it’s wonderful to sit by my own fire and dream…

From the 14th century The Masons Arms website, another St. Austell Brewery property. Doesn't this look cozy?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Click here for the St. Austell Brewery January deals newsletter, and dream a little dream of your own.

Cornwall, Carlyon Bay and the quilted hills

14 Wednesday Dec 2011

Posted by pat in Cornwall, Cornwall, England, paintings, Travel, Uncategorized

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Cornwall, England, travel

One of the first spots outside of the London area I visited in England with My Beloved Brit after we were first married was Cornwall.  His cousin lives there, who is like the brother he never had, and we drove the few hours west from Heathrow to visit.

I was groggy from jet lag (MBB had come over early to do some racing so he was my chauffeur), but I do remember the drive and the beautiful quilted hills. That was my name for those multicolored fields that were criss-crossed with hedgerows and pressed by endless sky.

It was home to MBB, and even when I woke up enough to register my astonishment that we had just driven past Stonehenge, he was rather unimpressed.  To him, it was just a familiar distance marker on the many trips he had made in his life from London to Cornwall.

We ended up in an area near St. Austell called Carlyon Bay where the hills finally met the sea.  From the tall bluffs you could look across the hydrangeas and see the rolling hills.  The cliffs were dotted with small inns and hotels, and we found a charming one called Porth Avallen Country House Hotel overlooking St. Austell Bay.

Perched on the sea road,  it was friendly and relaxed.  The labyrinth of hallways and staircases only added to the old fashioned charm, and we were perfectly happy.  Even more perfect, as soon as you walked outside, you could see the most amazing views.

The colors were beautiful and no matter which way you walked along the seaside road, the views were a painting waiting to happen.

But finally I saw the one that really held my interest. It was lovely.

That lone house on the edge of all those gorgeous hills.  There was something so isolated about it and yet, it was totally connected with its surroundings. You could just imagine curling up in one of it’s windowseats with a good book and a quilt.

I painted it hoping to capture that feeling, and now I love that painting.  It means domestic bliss in a wild world.

all photos and painting by me.

 

 

 

The Grey Country?

10 Saturday Dec 2011

Posted by pat in Art, British Virgin Islands, Cornwall, England, Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized

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British Virgin Islands, England

A small cay near the British Virgin Islands, pastel drawing by me

It is a grey (or the American version– gray) December day, and this is often when our thoughts return to those warm days we spent on the British Virgin Islands. Several of My Beloved Brit’s English mates have been chatting with him this week (on Skype, of course) about heading to warm places for a few weeks to beat the winter chill of England. I know it brings back memories for him of his years on Tortola, and sailing into the sunsets…or getting ready to race across the seas.

MBB getting ready for a race on the British Virgin Islands in past glory

The shores of England have a totally different feel, I know.  But they have always had their own special appeal to me.

"By The Cornish Sea", pastel by me

I often think I would like to spend some real time in England getting to know that country on an intimate basis.  My Beloved Brit, on the other hand, grew up there, and although he misses it terribly (especially his family and his mates) he fondly calls it the “grey country” and hesitates to think of moving back to those cold wet days and early dark nights of a very long winter season.

It amuses me sometimes how much climate dictates our decisions about where we move. Of course being the gypsies that we are, there is always another shore to explore, but MBB prefers it to be a warm one. England? Chances are slim for a more permanent move to those misty shores, but at least we get a chance to visit during the lovely summer months.

 

 

But is it cod?

19 Saturday Nov 2011

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

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Cornwall, England, fish and chips

Whenever we go to the seaside town of Rehoboth Beach, Delaware to deliver my art to the gallery that represents me there,  we always have to stop for fish and chips at Go Fish.

photo by me

My Beloved Brit is very particular about his Fish and Chips.  Once we’ve searched it out in any area we visit, the first question as he gazes at the menu is “Is it Cod?” If not, it’s just not the same thing.

When we met his cousins in Cornwall and went to the historic seaport of Fowey, we stopped for lunch.  They had the puffiest, biggest center cut pieces of cod, along with spectacular mushy peas (you don’t want to know) and of course chips (fries to us yanks).  His cousins looked in horror as I opened the puffed golden fried batter and ate the white moist fish out of the center.  It was fabulous, but honestly, they just couldn’t see the point.

And yes, Go Fish has lovely cod for their fish and chips, and the friendly British accents to go with it.

 

 

 

 

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