A friend was visiting a couple of weeks ago, and we were chatting about this blog and the difference in traditions between the UK and America. He asked a question that must be on many American men’s minds…what is with those fascinators?

by Lukesong, Wikimedia Commons
It got me thinking. How did this new fashion favorite start, and is it getting out of control? Love it or hate it, it is …well…fascinating. At the moment it is a fashion trend that crosses all classes and age groups in England.
I tend to think it started from those little girls who first put a feather or flower in their hair, and have now found a way to relive that fantasy moment of their youth. I mean, really, this headwear is purely decorative. Not a practical thing to wear to keep the head warm on those chilly English days.
The headpiece known as the fascinator is a millinery style that originally referred to a fine, frothy head covering made from wool or lace, but mostly feathers. Now they can be made of lace, flowers, beads and fabric as well as feathers.
Towards the end of the 16th century, feather plumes made their way to female hats from the fashion that started with the extravagantly plumed hats of the male English Cavaliers (just envision those Three Muskateers).
In the 18th century, wigs for both sexes were the popular fashion, and many were decorated with anything from miniature ships (Marie Antoinette who reigned from 1774-1792) to gorgeous feathers. How could they stand it!

Portrait of Marie Antoinette (1755-1793), artist probably Jean-Baptiste Dagoty, wikimedia commons
In England, it was during the reign of George III that the Duchess Georgiana Spencer of Devonshire wore magnificent Ostrich plumes in her hair. Of course other women of the late 1700s wanted to follow suit. British women began wearing “pompoms”, made of ribbons, small feathers, butterflies and jewels.

Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c.1775
As women, and countries, gained more independence, and flaunting ones wealth and class was more subdued, the massive wigs disappeared, and by the Empire period (early 1800s) hair styles became much simpler, with smaller ornaments, a simple spray of feathers or some pearls. Just think Jane Austen, and you get the idea.

Francois Gerard, Portrait of Caroline Murat descending the staircase of Elysee Palace, 1810, oil on canvas
During the Victorian era (1837-1901) more somber head wear reflected the less flamboyant period, but feathers and fascinators were still used for special occasions such as a night at the opera. By the early 1900s all bets were off. Fascinators exploded on the fashion scene, with tail feathers added along with ribbons and flowers.

Edna May, circa 1905
After World War I, things calmed down, but fascinators still appeared occasionally until the 1950s (think of the little bits of net tulle of the Mad Men era). The head decoration wained for awhile, and hats were associated with middle aged or matronly fashion…that wouldn’t do for the youth culture of the 1960s.
But then, with the decline of the hat, the more comfortable fascinator made a stunning re-appearance on the head of the Duchess of Cornwall (Camilla) when she married Prince Charles (2005). I remember seeing it, and wondering what this gorgeous confection of feathers was on her head. It was rather a fantasy piece.

The official photo from Clarence House of the Wedding of Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of Cambridge
Lady Gaga, of course, has taken the whole idea to a new extreme with her steak fascinator at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards. Women were willing to take big fashion risks. And of course, there are the horse races, Royal Ascot to be specific, where the more fanciful the better. The fascinator was back in fashion. (For couture millinery Ascot Fashion click here)

Ilda Di Vico Royal Ascot 2011, from Ilda Di Vico Couture Millinery website
Generally worn with fairly formal attire, it is especially loved at weddings. The general consensus seems to be that Kate Middleton, before she became the Duchess of Cambridge she is today, helped spark the great return popularity of the trend. And then there was the Royal Wedding (Catherine & William) which set the bar high for the most creative extremes of the style as worn by their guests.

Two of the most famous fascinators of our time, from the Royal Monarchy Flickr
In 2012 Royal Ascot announced that women will have to wear hats, not fascinators, as one aspect of the tightening dress code, in the Royal Enclosure this summer. Will this be the beginning of the end for the trend? Only time will tell.