Category Archives: United Kingdom

Burnham Week 2012

24 Friday Aug 2012

Posted by in Burnham-on-Crouch, England, Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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The sailing regattas of summer are an annual event met with great enthuiasm by English sailors–men and women.  The tradition continues starting this week on the East Coast of England in Burnham-on-Crouch, from Saturday August 25, through Saturday the 1st of September. It’s Burnham Week 2012.

The boats stand ready for race week in Burnham. Photo by me.

I know My Beloved Brit would love to be there, but this year he’ll have to be content to follow his mates on the internet.

Burnham was quiet when we there in June, but next week it will be a mad house. Photo by me.

He’s already been in touch with the line up from his yacht club, The Crouch, always steely competitors.

That is the Crouch Yacht Club on the far left (with the flag pole) facing the river, and the seawall of Burnham-on-Crouch beyond.  Photo by me.

There are 21 categories for the different fleets, but entries so far are lighter than when he sailed them in “his youth”.  The combination of a tough economy, and lack of available crew has cut the number of boats entering for the full week, but not the spirit of the sailors and spectators.

The “race box” on the top floor of the Burnham Sailing Club. A committee member sits up here to sound the horns, check the times and be in contact with the racers. The Crouch Yacht Club is right next to it on the sea wall. Photo by me

Let the races begin!

Inn Spirit is a worthy competitor for Burnham Week, and one of several boats My Beloved Brits will be following next week. Photo by me

 

Tides

21 Tuesday Aug 2012

Posted by in Cornwall, England, Travel, United Kingdom

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For such a very well-mannered country, the tides of England are pretty darn dramatic. Especially in Cornwall. It was so very evident wherever we went on the southwest coast.

The beautiful tall ships tucked in a safe harbour in Charlestown

But nowhere were the large tides more obvious than in Charlestown, where the big, old ships are berthed.

You might see a lovely bay, or small port, with the boats floating about, and when you came back a couple of hours later there is nothing but mud, and the poor boats are left high and dry.

The tide comes in at the entrance to the protected harbour at Charlestown. Photo by me

 

Poor boats left in the mud when the tide goes out. Photo by me

The change in sea level is very steady and goes from very high to very low in about six hours.

..and the tide goes out

Luckily the Brits know all about the sea, and have devised clever hideaways to protect their ships from the outgoing tides — like the lock system here in Charlestown.

The ships are carefully protected during low tide behind the locks. Photo by me

It’s a lovely feat of engineering that pumps the water in to the holding area if needed as the tide goes out. Someone actually closes the locks on the tides schedule. I imagine he keeps his alarm clock well maintained.

Water is pumped in to keep the ships high but not dry as the tide goes out. Photo by me

The system keeps the boats safe and protected no matter the time of day.

All tucked in for low tide. Photo by me

And if there are no walls to hold it back…

A beach in Cornwall near Carlyon Bay. Photo by me.

…the tide may just take a bit of England with it out to sea.

Castle Fever

18 Saturday Aug 2012

Posted by in Scotland, The Royal Family, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I have been thinking of Balmoral lately, with the Royal Family in residence for their summer holiday, and Prince Philip having to retreat to the hospital in Aberdeen for a recurring health issue.

Beautiful Balmoral in the spring…a splendid castle. Photo by me

When we visited Scotland in May, we found our charming inn, the Dundee Hotel…

The Deeside Hotel in Ballater, our home while in Scotland. Photo by me

…tucked in along the road not far from Balmoral, just on the western edge of Ballater, and managed to drag our luggage up the narrow stairs to our room. Charm does not usually come with elevators in Great Britain.

Outside our room at the top of the stairs, the signs of the area…red deer and scotch. Photo by me

It was unusually warm for this part of the UK, probably close to 80 degrees, and after managing to get one window open in the room (air-conditioning doesn’t seem to be the norm in Scotland) we decided to walk in to town to enjoy the sun and get the lay of the land.

The parlor at the Deeside Hotel. photo by me

One thing I noticed walking down the main road was that there was definitely a castle theme in the architecture.

A neighborhood castle. Photo by me

Ballater is a holiday location on the “Deeside” which is what the locals call the area on the north side of the River Dee.  Most of the town closes up for winter and the season is March to November at the most, although there are a few ski resorts nearby.

We assumed that many of these homes were second homes, and obviously if you have the money to have a home in Ballater, it might as well be a castle.

Even new construction favors the castle tradition in Ballater. Photo by me.

It may be the Balmoral influence, which is only about 6 miles down the road. Or maybe they are just waiting for the Americans to invade and feel they need some extra fortification.

In the hills of Ballater on the main road. photo by me

None-the-less, it is a wonderful area, and returning to our rather warm, and bright room (the sun sets after 9:45pm in May) we decided it was definitely worth the long trip north. After all, it was one of Queen Victoria’s absolute favorite spots on earth. And no one would dream to argue with her.

The original train station used by Queen Victoria in Ballater. Photo by me

White Cliffs and P&O: Dover

22 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by in cars, England, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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My beloved Brit and I took  break from the beautiful gardens of Kent when we were in England this summer to drive down to The White Cliffs of Dover and have a visit with his aunt and uncle who have lived in that area for years.

The White Cliffs loom above the coast everywhere. Photo by me

We went right down to the seafront to a classic hotel we knew from past visits for a lunch overlooking the English Channel. We could watch the huge ferries come and go between Dover and France over our leek and potato soup. Perfect for a chilly rainy day in England.

The old Churchill hotel is now a Best Western, beautifully redone. Photo by me.

We lingered over lunch as we watched the ferry traffic come and go outside the window.

 

It was a bit rainy during parts of the day (how unusual) and still the trucks lined up in great ques beneath the White Cliffs waiting to take their place on the massive boats that came and went through the sea wall with frightening regularity.  It was great fun.

MBB’s uncle, and aunt, had worked on, and with, the ships for decades, including the P&O Line, better known as the “Pooh Line”.  His uncle, who had worked for years with Dover Port Authority, told us over lunch that some of these boats carried more than 500-1300 cars and lorries per trip, plus cargo, and explained some of the navigational intricacies of the crossing which only takes a bit over an hour to cross to France.

It was a fascinating couple of hours, and we left with a reconfirmation of just what it meant to be a huge island nation.

The coast of Dover, England’s border on the English Channel. Photo by me.

The rest of the world is always across a stretch of sea, and you are connected to the outside world in many ways, but one of the most important in England is boats in all shapes and sizes.

Oxford

11 Wednesday Jul 2012

Posted by in England, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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The new Inspector Lewis series has started back on Masterpiece Theater this past week on Sunday nights.  Oh joy!

I had driven through Oxford once before years ago, but never really had a chance to see it at any length. When we were in England last month, we decided to take the day and wander through the streets where Inspector Lewis, one of my favorite BBC characters, investigates crime.

Oxford University. Is the filming equipment set up for BBC’s Inspector Lewis? Photo by me.

Oxford is a big old university town.  The different schools and colleges are scattered throughout the city, from the historic to the more modern.  You can just feel the scholastic atmosphere everywhere you go, and we did get a chance to peek in to several of the college courtyards.

A college courtyard, hidden gems, scattered throughout the University. Photo by me.

It’s hard to tell where the school ends and the city begins. The main streets were filled with students on a particularly warm day, and every other building seemed to have some academic credential posted on it.

Everywhere you turned, you were made aware that this was a big college town. Photo by me.

You could see the students everywhere with their bicycles casually leaned against a wall while they lingered in a café or shop.

Bicycles were the key mode of transport. Photo by me.

Parking was next to impossible, so you saw bikes, and buses and people walking with backpacks everywhere.

Bicycles everywhere in Oxford. Photo by me

The gold-colored walls are the same as in the nearby Cotswolds, and the architecture was amazing. Around every corner was another gorgeous building in that beautiful stone.

The gold stone is reminiscent of the Cotswolds, which Oxford is really part of. Photo by me

It was fascinating to see how the old and new blended so seamlessly. And, I must admit, t was just fun to be in a city again after a weeks in the countryside.

The modern students walk the historic streets in Oxfords main downtown. Photo by me

So much of it seemed so very familiar.  Was the inspector nearby?

Houghton Hall, The Gardens

07 Saturday Jul 2012

Posted by in England, Gardens, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Houghton Hall, the early 18th century hall of Great Britain’s First Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole, had two very distinct draws for my interest besides the main mansion.

One was the Deer Park, which I discussed in my last post.

The front lawns of Houghton Hall stretch for miles down to the deer park. Photo by me

The deer on the lawn. They certainly weren’t shy. Photo by me.

The other was the magnificent 5-acre walled garden. An area of the garden has been retained as a kitchen garden, but most has been laid out as a series of ornamental gardens in various styles.

The beginning of the walled gardens Photo by me

It was lovely, and had so many twists and turns, we weren’t sure where to begin. So we began in the middle.

Photo by me.

Down the center was a long alley with gorgeous borders. The wider north borders are planted with hot colors-reds and oranges-while the south borders are in cooler blues and whites.

At both ends are charming surprises that make you want to linger and enjoy the view

The Rustic Temple makes use of a collection of deer antlers found in the park. Photo by me.

I love when they have intimate surprises at the end of these long vistas of flowers.  It just makes you want to sit and take it all in.

At the other end of the long alley of flowers is the glasshouse. Photo by me

And in between, there are small garden rooms that strike off from the main aisle on paths behind the hedges.

Long passageways gave entry to the different garden areas. Photo by me

Each has its own personality.

A fountain that balances fire on top of the water – the Water Flame – is quite dramatic. Photo by me

One “room” featured some friendly bees in their hives. Photo by me.

Just when you thought you’d seen them all, you would discover one you had missed.

A resident in one of the garden rooms. Photo by me

Truly magnificent.

Another passageway. Photo by me

As we toured the main house you would catch glimpses of the lawn through the windows.  And as classically beautiful as the hall was with magnificent wall coverings and fabrics, I was happiest outside overlooking the park.

Houghton Hall, the home of the first prime minister, and still a politically active family. Photo by me

We even managed as we left the house to see a small white plane taking off from across the fields. Magic!

 

A small plane…

…takes off over the green.

 

and takes off in to the sky. Photos by me.

Houghton Hall, The Deer Park

05 Thursday Jul 2012

Posted by in England, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Last but not least in Norfolk, we visited the large, beautiful estate of Houghton Hall.  We often found that these grand family estates had something that made it a twist different from the next, and this estate was no exception.

The gates to Houghton Hall. We were first in line. Photo by me

Houghton Hall is a beautiful country house built in the Palladian style and renowned for its many deer that roam the 1,000 acre estate.  Houghton actually has a purebred controlled breeding program of descendants from royal stock from Sweden and Denmark as well as other countries. And the deer were out in force, roaming the large sweeps of lawn.

These white deer are not albino, just a particular breed

Or they could be found hiding behind a grove of trees on the front lawn.  There are many species including European Red Deer, Chinese Water Deer as well as stock from India and Japan.

Shy Red Deer Photo by me

The perfect setting for them, they seem amazingly docile and tame, but i still managed to keep a bit of distance between us.

Roaming free, the happy deer of Houghton. Photo by me

Just wandering around the grand front parkland I walked down to see them hiding in the groves of trees…

Just having a bit of a rest under the trees. Photo by me.

The front view from the Deer Park. Photo by me

and as soon as I walked back to the house, they came out for a graze.  They were as interested in me as I in them.

The deer came out from the trees as soon as I moved away.

A beautiful spot for grazing.

Holkham, A Magical Place

01 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by in England, Gardens, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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One very special discovery we had in Norfolk was Holkham, a huge privately owned estate, that also included a local village and beach.

Holkham is the center of an agricultural estate of over 25,000 acres. The owners are ancestors of the Earl of Leicester, and the current residents strive to keep it a viable working estate. Viscount Coke, his wife Polly and their four young children (Elizabeth, Edward, Hermione, and Juno) live in the Hall  and work constantly to maintain the property and its businesses.

We decided to go for the morning to explore.

The main hall at Holkham, an impressive estate. Photo by me.

We went on a particularly chilly day and were greeted by red deer at the entrance to the Deer Park.  The wind was picking up, but it didn’t seem to bother them at all.

The deer welcomed us to Holkham. Photo by me

We got to the main Hall before the ticket office officially opened, so we decided to explore the grounds a bit on our own. The lake looked a bit deserted for the day. It might have had something to do with the chilly day.

Boats awaited visitors on the lake at Holkham. Too cold today! Photo by me.

Still it was lovely, although the wind whipped along the open field.  There was a cricket pitch on the left for local matches, and the grounds seemed to go on forever. The estate has hosted major concerts in Britain, including Elton John and Girls Aloud.

Holkham Hall. Photo by me

Holkham is farmed by over 25 tenanted farmers.  We saw everything from wheat, to pigs to cows. Holkham’s ancestral residents were pioneers of rotation crop farming, and they have a large exhibition on it.

Farming tools at the museum. Photo by me

Some of Holkham’s happy tenants. Photo by me.

The estate is still privately owned and leases almost 300 houses to people who live and work locally, as well as two inns, The Victoria and The Globe, restaurants and a caravan park.  They also started, and run to this day, Holkham Linseed Paint.  It is its own little economy and fascinating to see how the family supports this massive estate.

Battered by the chilly breezes, we decided to go back to The Stables Cafe and get a hot cup of latte.

The empty garden, but the baked goods looked great in the cafe. Photo by me.

The tea garden was quite empty but inside it was warmer and very inviting. We bought our tickets to tour the complete grounds and the museum. Outside the cafe, we met a friendly guide who took us around the estate in his open tram, and ended up at the walled garden.  It was incredible.  They had been working on restoring the 6 1/2 acres of garden that had originally been laid out in the 1700s, for over three years,  and still had huge amounts of work to do.

In transition. I think my garden projects are overwhelming, but this is immense! Photo by me.

The boiler heating system had been fixed, and My Beloved Brit was fascinated with the system of pipe works bringing hot water to the outside walls.

My Beloved Brit was fascinated by the boiler and heating system for the glasshouses. There was a huge underground system. This is the chimney. Photo by me

It also heated the Victorian glasshouses which are still being restored.

The glasshouses have underground heating which has been reconnected. Photo by me

It is never-ending. There was garden room after garden room in various stages of restoration. It was interesting to see one of these great gardens going through the process of re-birth.  We’ve seen so many in England where the end results were on display.

The payoff for this chilly morning was the Bygones Museum and History of Farming back at the main house.   It had rooms and rooms of historic memorabilia from cooking utensils, to an old water pump.  And for MBB, the favorite were the cars.

The coutrtyard at the museum at Holkham, filled with all kinds of excellent old vehicles. Photo by me

Everyone who worked at Holkham seemed so happy to be there.  Our guide told us endless stories about how the family had changed the area for the better. Very refreshing to hear.

Time for a warming lunch at a pub on the way back to our Inn. Photo by me

It was another memorable day, even though our toes were numb, and our fingers blue. A perfect day in Norfolk.

St. James’s Park, An Oasis

27 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, Gardens, History, London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I spent a great deal of time in St. James’s Park on Jubilee Weekend because of its proximity to Buckingham Palace and The Mall where many of the regal activities took place.

One of the most elegant entrances to St. James’s Park from The Mall. Photo by me

Skirted by three royal palaces–the ancient Palace of Westminster (now known as The Houses of Parliament), the Tudor styled St. James’s Palace, and Buckingham Palace where the Monarch has lived since 1837–St. James’s Park is located in the heart of historic London. It is also one of the most beautiful parks in the city.

St. James’s Park, one of the prettiest in London. Photo by me

In 1536, King Henry VIII decided to turn the marshy farmland and woods into a deer park conveniently located near his palace at Westminster.

The Palace of Westminster, now known as the Houses of Parliament

He acquired the land and eventually built a hunting lodge on it which finally became St. James’s Palace.

St. Jame’s Palace is just around the corner from The Ritz on a busy London Street during Jubilee. Photo by me.

St. Jame’s Palace borders two worlds, the park and The Mall on one side, and a busy London Street on the other.

The side of St. James’s Palace backs up to St. Jame’s Park. The Palace is still an active court. Photo by me.

After many reincarnations, the park got another makeover in the 1820s in the naturalistic style when George IV did a major renovation project creating many of London’s best-known landmarks, including Regent’s Park and The Mall as a grand boulevard.

The Mall, a grand processional boulevard next to St. James’s Park. Photo by me

It was overseen by landscaper and architect, John Nash. His design is pretty much as you see the park today.

It was designed by John Nash in a natural style.  Photo by me.

The natural curves of the lake fits in beautifully with the English landscaping. Photo by me

A small cottage on the south edge of the park was the bird-keeper’s cottage built in 1841. Photo by me.

You may picnic in the park, but many people prefer to just stroll through the grounds admiring the flower beds…

The flowers bloomed just in time for the Jubilee. Photo by me

 

The color combinations were so creative. Photo by me

…and seeing the amazing collection of wildlife. With over 5.5 million visitors a year it is amazing that the habitat survives.

The park is very well used, especially on bank holiday weekends. Photo by me.

But survive it does, and flourishes. There are over 15 different species of waterfowl in the park.

A mother and her babies in St. James’s. Photo by me

Some of the waterfowl are beautifully colored. Photo by me

To commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, The Royal Parks fashioned a magnificent crown which is a floral replica of the St. Edwards Crown that was used in the crowning of Queen Elizabeth II during her coronation ceremony on 2 June 1953.

The Royal Parks Jubilee Crown. Photo by me.

I could have spent many more hours just getting to know the park a little bit better.  It makes me want to return for a sketching day along the lake. For more information on the Park, visit their website with a click here.

The lake at St. Jame’s Park looking towards the Horse Guards Parade off Whitehall. Photo by me.

 

Kensington Palace

23 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I had so many adventures in England it all seems a blur now that I am home in the US.  I have been going through my photos recalling the details, and realize there were many really special days.

One in particular was a rather dreary morning in London during jubilee weekend. The Queen was busy at Epsom Downs for the races, so I decided to head down to Kensington and see the new renovation of the exhibition halls at the Palace.

A busy dog walker in Kensington Gardens. Photo by me

I decided to take the bus after learning how to get and use an “Oyster” pass.  With the crowds coming in to London for the weekend, it seemed like the sensible thing to do, and it turned out it was easy to use on either a bus or the “underground”.

The busy bus stop at Green Park in London. Photo by me

I got to Kensington Palace at Hyde Park at 10am.  It was gray and misty but lovely and very quiet. Grey skies or not, people seemed to be out enjoying the park and getting on with their day.

People were still enjoying the park despite the misty weather. Photo by me

I did a quick tour of the entry with the statue of Queen Victoria and the sunken gardens, and then headed inside.

Kensington Palace from the sunken garden. Photo by me

The new exhibit was wonderful.  There were several areas to view and each had it’s own personality and distinct style.

The exhibit as a bit cheeky and had a sense of humor to it. Photo by me

The rooms managed to combine the rich history of the royal apartments with a rather modern design element that kept it fresh.

An interesting design representation of Queen Anne’s lost children–out of 18 pregnancies, none survived to adulthood, resulting in the extinction of the House of Stuart, and the throne passed to the Hanovers. Photo by me

I rather like the way London has combined a modern sensibility with their historical past.  I wonder at times if it was a controversial decision or whether the modern Brits just accept it. Everyone seemed quite enthralled by it.

A beautifully restored classic ceiling in the King’s apartments. Photo by me

Either way it was great fun for me, and I actually lingered in many of the spaces, especially the state apartments George I and II.

The staircase to the apartments. Photo by me

There was also a beautiful set of rooms in the exhibition “Victoria Revealed”, where you got a real sense of the life of the wife, mother and woman behind the crown. This is where Victoria spent her childhood and became Queen, and artifacts tell the story of her love for Albert and her great loss when he died.

Victoria’s wedding dress. Photo by me.

And Victoria’s mourning clothes. Photo by me

The temporary display on Princess Diana gave just a brief glimpse in to the life of this famous resident of the Palace,

Two of Diana’s dresses on display. Photo by me

and a chance to see some of her most beautiful dresses.

The whimsical wallpaper leading to the exhibition of five of Diana’s dresses. Photo by me

The golden gates at the south side of the palace were covered in floral tributes to the princess after she died in 1997. In the following days every inch of railing around the palace was covered, “and the flowers stretched out like a carpet into Kensington Gardens.”

The gates to Kensington Palace. Photo by me

It’s interesting to think of the lives that have passed through these hallways.

The history these halls must have witnessed. Photo by me

Prince William and The Duchess of Cambridge (Kate) are now preparing a large apartment in the complex to become their future home.  And so the history will continue to the next generation.

In the entry vestibule, some past and current residents are pictured on the walls. Photo by me

I did enjoy my visit, and loved the touch of whimsy and design detail that carried throughout the exhibition, like this directional sign for the public toilets. Those Brits do have a wonderful sense of humor.

 

It is an amazing place.  It makes the imagination run wild when you think who has walked these hallways.

Kensington Palace with the statue of one of its most famous residents, Queen Victoria. Photo by me.