A Medieval Visit, Penshurst Place and Gardens

09 Saturday Jun 2012

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We continued through the countryside in Kent, and came across another great estate, Penshurst Place, surrounded by ancient parkland.  I had read about this grand building, parts of which dated back to the 14th century.  The halls and rooms were incredible and even more so when you realized that the heart of the house was medieval from the Tudor period. Henry VIII was said to have used it as a hunting lodge.

The entryway to the grand hall. Photo by me

It has been described as “the grandest and most perfectly preserved example of a fortified manor house in all England”.

The magnificent stone work was matched by the woodworking inside. Photo by me

I loved the sense of history here. It really was just a family historic home, but every time you turned a corner, you expected to run into a medieval nobleman or lady. We just have nothing that can compare to this in the United States, and it humbles you to realize the long, vast history of English-speaking people.

A gardener works on through the rain showers just outside the hall. Photo by me

Many films have been made here, including The Other Boleyn Girl. Sound recordists from the Harry Potter film series came and recorded floor creaks in the Long Gallery to get authentic sound effects.

You can imagine Henry VIII sweeping through the courtyards. Photo by me

After a quick tour of the building, My Beloved Brit and I went out in to the gardens. We started by crossing the sunken garden outside the main structure.

The sunken garden. Photo by me.

We passed down a few long passages of gardens in rainbow hues, some quite whimsical in their design…

The dramatic skies just made it more wonderful. Photo by me

The showers made everything so lush. Photo by me

Each garden held a bit of a surprise.All photos by me.

…and then we entered a maze of exquisite garden “rooms”. Each had their own personality.

A "secret room", buried in the garden maze. Photo by me

They were varied and lovely, even in the rain which kept starting and stopping.  It didn’t matter at all.  Sun or grey, they were lovely.

The wind blows the fountain on a grey day in the gardens. Photo by me

You could get lost in the many passages as you cut through the “doorways” in the hedge walls that separated them.

It was unique and lovely and made for a truly wonderful afternoon.

I love Kent, fondly known as “England’s Garden”.  Aptly named.

Every time you are tempted to curse the rain, you realize that it is responsible for these extraordinary explosions of nature. I love every drop.

Chartwell, A House Full of History

07 Thursday Jun 2012

Posted by in Art Museums & Exhibitions, England, Gardens, History, National Trust, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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We woke to another rainy day in Kent.  What better way to spend a wet, grey morning in England than to tour a house and garden.  There are so many really monumental estates in this area to choose from. We picked one that appealed to both My Beloved Brit and myself…Chartwell, Sir Winston Churchill’s estate that he purchased in 1922.

Chartwell, the adult home of Sir Winston Churchill. Photo by me

It was an interesting drive to get to the estate…under an hour through winding, narrow lanes with barely enough room for two cars to pass let alone a lorrie.  Good thing MBB offered to drive.

Churchill spent as much time as he could at Chartwell, except during the Second World War, until his death in 1965.  And why not?  It is a spectacular setting.

The view of the Kent countryside from the front patio is breathtaking. Photo by me.

The house reflects the family’s life at Chartwell in the 1920s and 30s. I loved that The National Trust chose this particular period, and made it seem like we had just dropped by the home for a friendly visit. I am sorry no photos were allowed of the interior, because it was warm and friendly and inviting.  I was ready to move in tomorrow.

The drawing-room windows look out over the immense view. Photo by me.

There was even a pool on the back lawn which rolls down to a lake and cow pasture.

The swimming pool from the gardens. Is it ever warm enough to swim? We didn't feel the desire for a cool pool. Photo by me

The pool in the foreground, and the lake beyond. Photo by me.

Touring the house, you had the feeling that the Churchills had just stepped out for a newspaper, or perhaps Winston was down in his art studio putting the finishing touches on a landscape from the magnificent views over The Weald of Kent.

The view from the house to Churchill's art studio where over 100 paintings by the amateur artist are on display. Photo by me.

The gardens have a natural quality and are quintessentially English, rolling hills with casual looking gardens that you know must have been perfectly planned to take full advantage of the English weather.

The kitchen garden in the rain. Photo by me

The rain came and went throughout the morning, but no one seemed to mind.  You just opened your brollie and carried on, and when you went in to the house they had little plastic sheaths ready for wet umbrellas and rugs to wipe the rain off wellies. These Brits are used to rain. As MBB said, if you waited for the sun to come out, you’d never do anything in this country, so you just carry on.

We took refuge under a large tree with several other families until the rain took a break. Photo by me.

We both were mesmerized by the gardens and the views, as well as the sense of history that filled the house.  Many of Sir Winston’s uniforms and medals were displayed in one room, giving a hint of the true greatness of his career. There were photos with recognizable faces everywhere, but the house still had an informal charm.

The Water Garden, one of Winston's final painting locations. A beautiful, tranquil spot.. Photo by me

Another view near The Water Garden. Photo by me

It seems the gardener's work was interrupted on Lady Churchill's Rose Garden. Photo by me.

It was a truly lovely day, rain and all. We shook off our umbrellas, got in to the car and drove down the country lane looking for more gardens.

 

 

The Jubilee Day of Thanksgiving

05 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, History, London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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It is another busy day in London, and it is not supposed to rain until this afternoon, so what better way to spend a morning than to see if I can catch a glimpse of the Queen. Unfortunately, Prince Philip is in hospital and will not be able to join her today, and I am sure he will be on her mind most of the day.  It is a shame he can’t be there to share all the special events with her.

Around the corner at St. James's Palace, and free flags to wave from The Daily Mirror. Photo by me

I wandered down to the Mall and glued myself as close as I could to the railing with many others to wait for the Queen drive by on the way to St. Paul’s.

Massive, friendly crowds...again. Photo by me.

The  crowd, as always was in a splendid mood and burst into song “God Save The Queen” and “Rule Britannia” at a moments notice.  There were two groups on either side of The Mall that often broke into a cheering and flag waving competition.  All very high-spirited and fun.

Definitely, non-stop, the best hat of the Jubilee. Photo by me

And I did manage to see the flash of pale blue as The Queen drove by following the car with Prince Charles and Camilla.

The Queen passed by and gave me a wave. It is all a blur. Photo by me

It was actually pretty exciting, and I must say, I have a sense of satisfaction that I have seen the Queen in her Jubilee Year. There was something poignant about her sitting with her Lady in Waiting, The Lady Farnham, rather than Prince Philip, but she was still all smiles when she reached St. Paul’s. You’ve got to love this woman. She just keeps soldiering on.

The web cam was massive and great to catch up on other areas of the celebration. Photo by me

This lucky person was obviously at the Buckingham Palace Garden Picnic last night as witnessed by her official picnic basket. They were given to ticket holders as a gift! Photo by me

I watched a few minutes of the service at St. Paul’s Cathedral on the large screen in St. James’s with many others…

The Mall and St James's was filling up fast. By 12:30 when I passed it again, they had stopped any additional access. It was full. Photo by me.

…and then headed back to pack up and head off. I had to get to Charing Cross Station which was right in the middle of all the motorcades winding back and forth throughout the day.  This was going to be interesting.

The Mall waiting for the carriage procession at 2:30. Photo by me

I passed streams of people heading to the Mall to see the procession and appearance on the balcony later this afternoon.

The crowds just keep streaming towards the mall and parade route. Photo by me

And so I am off to Kent today to meet up with My Beloved Brit.  He has promised me a day or two of magnificent garden tours if weather permits before we enjoy the company of some of his family we haven’t seen in ages. The perfect way to end a perfectly wonderful Jubilee Celebration.

 

The Concert of a Lifetime

04 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by in Art, Art Museums & Exhibitions, England, entertainment, London, Music, paintings, The Royal Family, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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After a wet Sunday on the river, it was time for the Jubilee Concert.  I had heard the drifting sound of music in the air all weekend as the bands rehearsed on the giant sound stage set up at The Queen Victoria Memorial Fountain outside Buckingham Palace.

Preparations for the concert have been going on all weekend. Photo by me

Mastermind of the three-hour BBC produced musical extravaganza Gary Barlow promised Sir Paul McCartney, Stevie Wonder and Sir Elton John.  It also promised to possibly be a rainy night on the Mall.

The clouds are building Monday morning as the blimp flies over St James's Park at the Westminster end. Photo by me.

The crowds were already flooding the park before noon staking out their spots with flags and blankets.  The 10,000 grandstand tickets had been awarded ages ago by a national ballot.  Those lucky sods also got a picnic in the Buckingham Palace Gardens. These additional attendees were people outside the inner fence trying to get a good view of the big screens set up down the Mall and in St. James’s Park.

These St. James's Park residents could have cared less about the invasion going on around them. Photo by me.

The best part of the morning was Stevie Wonder rehearsing and although there was no image, you could hear “Superstition” loud and clear throughout the park. His music continued for quite a while. Everyone was already rocking.

Before noon, people were already arriving for the show which would really begin at about 8 pm. Photo by me

I decided to take a break, and headed to the end of the park at Trafalgar to pay a visit to the National Gallery.

The National Gallery of Art, the perfect spot on a cool, cloudy London day. Photo by me.

I got my floor plan and carefully laid out my plan of attack on the massive museum. I began with the Impressionists.

Cezanne at The National Gallery. Photo by me

I also managed to fit in lunch at the museum cafe…an asparagus, fennel, and goat cheese tart and salad.  It was the perfect accompaniment to Turner.

Turner, The National Gallery. photo by me

After lunch, I decided to spend another hour with Cezanne, Rembrandt and Botticelli. Finally, it was time to leave these perfect companions, and head back through the Mall.  The crowds were now setting up mini-tent-towns.

Tents were popping up everywhere like mushrooms. Photo by me

The boards kept flashing notices that if you were planning to stay in the park overnight to view the parade tomorrow, you had to be in St. James’s Park, not on the Mall.  In the park overnight!!!

Food stalls were set up everywhere, these two outside Clarence House. This was a mini-Woodstock. Photo by me

This might be a bit tough to get anywhere close to the action tonight. OMG! These people were serious.

Tents in St. James's with Big Ben in the background. Photo by me

I was bound and determined to at least try.

I love the woman with the high heels...what was she thinking. She was going to the palace and she was going to wear her best shoes, that's what! Photo by me.

Security was ultra strict, thank goodness, and they were already limiting access at certain points and checking backpacks and purses as they came in to the area.

The crowds kept pouring in. I imagine within the next couple of hours it would be impossible to get anywhere near. Photo by me.

I was informed by three concert security people that the sneak route I had planned through Green Park would be closed off…for the next two days.

The Official Souvenir Stands were doing a brisk business. Photo by me.

It looked like I might have to open my window and listen to the music from afar, but we’ll see.

These two music lovers have claimed their positions for the night. Photo by me

The weather may have something to do with it. It was threatening rain by 4 pm. The concert and beacons that would light up the sky were planned for later tonight.  England’s skies don’t get dark until very late this time of year.

I headed over around 5 pm and made it in with many other revelers.  Everyone was in an extremely jolly mood to say the least.

A happy group of Jubilee Concert goers. Photo by me

Some people put some real effort into their ensembles. Photo by me.

The sky got dark and it started to rain.  But all was not lost.

Even the rain couldn't dampen spirits. Photo by me

Soon the sun was shining again and people were dancing in the street.  I had a classic British dinner at the concert…chips (french fries to you Yanks) and a hot chocolate to ward off the chill.

There were many dining options at the Jubilee Concert. I chose chips, a popular choice. Photo by me

And then the boards lit up and it began.

Let the party get started. On the lawn in St. James's Park. Photo by me

The crowd was enjoying the music thoroughly.  At the least provocation they sang along, cheered and waved their flags.

One of my favorite moments. This couple had their Queen and Prince masks on the back of their heads, and people kept running up behind them and having their pictures taken without them even being aware. Photo by me.

As it got dark, the music got better and better. Again, the crowd control was phenomenal.

The crowds were huge all over the area, but it was so well organized it was fine. Photo by me.

There were police, security and concert staff everywhere inside and outside the concert area to make sure everything ran smoothly…and it did. I don’t usually like huge crowds, but this never bothered me.

It was finally getting dark, and Annie Lenox came on. Photo by me

I waited for the queen to arrive, and decided it was time to walk back to my room (the concert actually started at 7:30).  My usual access was cut off so I had to walk around a much longer way, but there were lots of people with me, a happy crowd, who had spent the day celebrating and were also ready to go home, and plenty of security on the streets to guide me home.

I can still hear the crowds and helicopters outside from my room as I write this.  London is a very happy place tonight.  May it always be so joyous. Happy Diamond Jubilee everyone.

I head back to the country tomorrow to join My Beloved Brit after his weekend of sailing.  It will be so good to see him, but I will miss London.

 

 

The Flotilla on the Thames

03 Sunday Jun 2012

Posted by in Art, Art Museums & Exhibitions, England, London, paintings, The Royal Family, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Rain was predicted heading in to the weekend for Sunday, the day of the staging of the largest flotilla in decades to parade down the Thames in honor of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee.  The event was supposed to begin around 2:30 pm and start near Battersea Park, heading up river for Tower Bridge. All looked relatively calm on Saturday, although there always seemed to be a helicopter overhead, and police sirens kept rushing through the city.

The River Thames on June 2, 2012 looking very calm. Photo by me.

I woke up to the sound of rain outside my window on Sunday morning, and rushed down to Piccadilly to see if I could score an umbrella.  I did at the local newsstand for only 5 pounds.  We’ll see if it survives the jubilee.

I decided the best approach for the day was to head over to Tate Modern Art Gallery on the South Bank.  If it didn’t stop raining, at least I will have gotten to see the Damien Hirst exhibition. If it did, I might be able to catch a glimpse of the river parade.

The banner for the Damien Hirst exhibition at Tate Modern, located in an old power station directly on the Thames. Photo by me

Some poor souls were camped out on the banks of the river waiting for the pageant to begin.  They still had over 5 hours to go before even a hope to glimpse a boat.

Staking out their positions on the river. Photo by me

I couldn’t imagine.  It was quite chilly, and a misty drizzle filled the air, but people were in a grand mood, and everyone seemed happy enough.  Somehow the rain just made the whole day more British. I decided to wait it out in the huge Tate where it was warm…and had bathrooms.

The toasty warm...and dry...Tate Book Store. Photo by me

I paid my fee for the special Hirst exhibit (many museums are free in London, but charge a hefty price for special exhibitions) and spent a long time lingering through the exhibition.  Hirst had never been one of my favorite artists, but as usual, the Tate did a fabulous job of really explaining his career in this retrospective.  I saw the diamond skull, and the shark in formaldehyde and the room of live butterflies.

The Physical Impossibility of Death in The Mind of Someone Living, by Damien Hirst (1991) from Wikipedia Commons

I read the small booklet they gave me and saw the very expansive film with Hirst narrating, and walked away with a much better understanding and appreciation of the artist and his work.  I was not allowed to photograph here, but take my word, it was very well done.

I decided to stop by for a quick lunch in the coffee shop (after realizing it was impossible to eat in the restaurant on the top floor which had a view of the river), and noticed crowds were already trying to command a position by the windows on this floor that faced the river.  It was noon, at least 3 hours until the pageant would reach this point.

The Tate Modern coffee shop. The view out the window was very popular. Photo by me

At this point there really was nothing much to see but a misted over St. Paul's across the river. Photo by me

I returned to the galleries after my smoked salmon and cucumber sandwich, and saw a wonderful exhibition called “Energy and Process”.  It had some interesting work that explored the use of new materials for making art, unheard of in its time. There were also some old favorites of mine of Cy Twombly that I had seen the last time I was here, but will never get enough of.

Surface-to-Surface by Susumu Koshimizo (planks) and Ren-Shiki-Tai by Kishio Suga (stone). At the time, these types of materials had never been used to create art in modern times. photo by me

Untitled by Marita Merz, aluminum Photo by me

Bacchus series paintings and sculptures, Cy Twombly. Photo by me.

I spent time wandering through a few more floors, visited the book shop and finally decided to reclaim my jacket and umbrella from the cloak room and head out in to the throngs of humanity which had been building all day.

The crowd had grown outside while I was enjoying art inside. Photo by me.

There wasn't an inch of space to stand near the river. Photo by me

I couldn't even get a view of the big screen set up on the outside of the Tate. Photo by me.

I could see this area wasn’ t going to work out, and I could tell by the crowds cheering watching the screen that the Queen had boarded the barge to start her trip up the Thames.  There were helicopters overhead and bells were ringing.

I decided to head down river.

A bit of ice cream never hurts, no matter what the temperature. Photo by me

But everyone was in a great mood, and it had stopped raining, and there were lots of police controlling the crowds.  If an area got too packed, they blocked off new people coming in and explained how to get around it…and people did.  So civilized.

The South Bank of London. Photo by me

London's finest had everything under control. Photo by me

Finally, I made my way down to The London Eye at Jubilee Park.

The London Eye on a grey jubilee day. Photo by me

Here there was another giant screen set up…and many, many people watching it.  But it was on a hillside so it worked, and the river was in the background so we could hear the boats moving on the river with fire whistles and salutes. It was very festive to say the least.

The crowds loved it. Photo by me

And when the image came on the giant screen showing that the Queen’s barge was right behind us on the river, and you could hear the salutes, the crowd went wild. Flags were waving and people were cheering.  The woman next to me said it made it all worth while coming out to see it live, and not sitting at home watching it on her tellie with a cup of tea.

You could see The Eye on the screen that was right behind us in the park. The crowd went nuts! Photo by me.

The Queen and Prince Philip. The cheers went up again, and the women commented on how lovely she looked. Photo by me.

Once the Queen’s barge went by, I decided (along with about a million other people) it might be time to head for Waterloo Station to get back across the river.  It was growing darker and darker and the sky was looking a bit threatening.

Coming out of the Green Park Underground Station in the wet. Photo by me

As I came out of my station, it was pouring again but I managed to use my trusty cheap umbrella to get me in to my London room. As I passed the library on my way upstairs, I noticed the TV was on with other wet jubileers watching the ending ceremonies at Tower Bridge.  They had been on bicycles and were quite bedraggled, but we all agreed it was a tremendous day.  We sat down and shared a cup of tea to toast the Queen.

Monday night is the huge Jubilee Concert outside Buckingham Palace.  I can hear them rehearsing across the park this evening.  The forecast is for rain. We shall see.

 

 

London at Jubilee

02 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, London, The Royal Family, Travel

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Walking through London, the images are overwhelming.  Everyone is in a tremendously festive mood and in such good spirits that it’s bound to rub off on you.

Many of the streets were decked out with flags and bunting. Photo of Oxford Street by me

The town is ready for the 60th Anniversary of the Queen’s reign.

A sweet window decorated with the Queen in mind. Photo by me.

I thought today I’d share some of the London sights on the Friday before the weekend Jubilee Celebration really begins.

As soon as I got to London, I could see there was a party going on. Photo of Bond Street by me.

Getting ready for the concert on Monday night at Buckingham Palace. Photo by me.

I wandered over to Buckingham Palace to see what was going on in preparation for the big weekend. The bands were beginning to rehearse and there was great music playing.  Have no idea who was playing it, but it didn’t matter.

Everyone was wandering about anticipating the fun to come. Photo by me

I’ll walk down a few more times before the actual night of the concert to catch the rehearsal music. The crowds are manageable now, and I have a feeling they won’t be on Monday night. Luckily my accommodations are a short ten minute walk  through Green Park.

The view the other direction from the soundstage. Photo by me

The Mall is pretty much shut down to traffic getting ready for the big event. But the guard at Clarence House directly off the wide boulevard doesn’t seem to be aware of all the commotion around him.

A guard at the gate of Clarence House, official residence of Prince Charles, The Duchess of Cornwall (Camilla) and Prince Harry. Photo by me

When I strolled in to St. James’s Park next to The Mall, I saw the most extraordinary foliage sculpture of a crown right behind the stands set up for the concert…

The Topiary Crown in St. Jame's Park. Photo by me

…not to mention the most gorgeous gardens in full bloom (nothing to do with Jubilee. I just thought they were spectacular).

St James's Park near the lake. Photo by me

I left the excitement surrounding the palace, and headed over to the National Portrait Gallery to see the exhibition on the Queen.  Well worth the walk. There was a special exhibit featuring six decades of art portraying Elizabeth II.

The National Portrait Gallery at Trafalgar Square. Photo by me

As I came out and turned to walk back to my room, I noticed the Canadian Embassy, decked out in honor of the Queen.  Congratulations, your majesty. Job well done.

The Canadian Embassy honors the Queen. Photo by me.

 

Jubilee Windows

01 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, Shopping, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Wherever we went in England and Scotland this past week, we saw store front windows celebrating the Diamond Jubilee, and announcements everywhere of festivities and local events in honor of the event.  There is a great sense of celebration everywhere, from the smallest village to London’s high street. You really can feel it building, and the sense of national pride and just plain fun is in every corner of the country. This weekend should be a kick!

Happy Diamond Jubilee Your Majesty. Photo by me.

I have thought more than once what a great sense of community the monarchy brings, and whenever I hear people wonder why the British keep it, this makes it perfectly obvious. At the moment it is at the height of popularity and seems to pull the entire country together.

Loved this one in Oxford, but Prince Philip does look a bit like a head waiter. photo by me

The deep awareness of history and common past has never shown its strength in a more obvious way. Most Brits have never known a different monarch in their lifetime when you consider this celebrates Elizabeth’s 60th year. So though we Americans may go through many heads of state in our lifetime, the monarchy gives the British people a great sense of continuity and national pride.

Windows for the celebration. Hard to see, but Will and Kate are on the left. The celebration is focusing on the accession. Photo by me.

There are all sorts of street parties and local celebrations planned, from pony rides to special fairs, and just about everyone seems to be getting in to the spirit.  Of course a four day holiday weekend does help bring joy to the nation.

Even the bakeries are getting in to the spirit. Photo by me.

It’s been great fun to be around for it, and I head in to London on today to join in the main festivities.

The Sailor Returns to the Sea

31 Thursday May 2012

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The first evening we came in to Burnham-on-Crouch, My Beloved Brit’s old sailing haunt, we were two beats ahead of showers. It was wonderful coming around the corner in the familiar village.

Burnham-On-Crouch...the high street. photo by me

One of the first things we did was drop off our luggage at the Inn and walk down to the seawall for a stroll…lovely as ever.

The Crouch River escaping the storm. photo by me.

MBB will be sailing this weekend in Burnham with all his mates, while I take the train in to London to witness the Diamond Jubilee celebration there.  We will both be very happy even though it has gotten quite a bit cooler and there is some rain predicted.  It is, after all, the grey country.

The marina stands ready for the weekend races. Photo by me.

 

 

Scottish weather, wait a minute and it will change

30 Wednesday May 2012

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Our last stop in Scotland was a hotel in Dundee, a stop in a big city to give us a chance to catch up on internet backlog, and do laundry.  Travel chores that must be done.

The view from our window over the River Tay is a perfect of example of Scottish weather.  In the evening it was clear and warm and lovely.

The River Tay and the bridge that we took to St. Andrews. photo by me

By morning it had disappeared in fog.  Beautiful all the same.

The River Tay in morning. photo by me

Head For The Hills

29 Tuesday May 2012

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On the next unseasonably warm day in Scotland, we headed to Braemar and the Glen of Lui to take a cool walk in the forest that was highly recommended to us by a knowledgable local.  My Beloved Brit even broke out the shorts. It was well in to the 70s, unheard of, especially this time of year.

Through the forest on a warm spring day in Scotland. Photo by me

We went to see the salmon run, and although the salmon were not running that day, it was still a pretty interesting walk.

The salmon were not running. photo by me.

We saw a large herd of beautiful red deer in the distance coming down from the hills to the river’s edge again.  We could not get very close, but it was still impressive.  We had also seen several cross the road right in front of our car earlier in the morning.  Less exciting, more scary, but still very cool once the shock wore off.

In the distance, a herd of red deer coming in for a drink. Photo by me

On the drive back to Braemar for lunch,  I spotted this classic red British Telephone booth…but notice at the top the inscription…”email,text,phone”.

 

An old traditional telephone box has a new twist. Photo by me.

I turned to return to the car and noticed that this mother and baby were as interested in me as I was in the telephone booth.  They just stood watching as I snapped away.

Hello. Welcome to the neighborhood. Photo by me.

We bid them goodby and retreated to Bramaer for lunch. A perfect morning in Scotland.

The hotel in Bramer and our favorite lunch stop for sandwiches in the lobby before heading back to Ballater. Photo by me.