Category Archives: Travel

Holkham, A Magical Place

01 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by in England, Gardens, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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One very special discovery we had in Norfolk was Holkham, a huge privately owned estate, that also included a local village and beach.

Holkham is the center of an agricultural estate of over 25,000 acres. The owners are ancestors of the Earl of Leicester, and the current residents strive to keep it a viable working estate. Viscount Coke, his wife Polly and their four young children (Elizabeth, Edward, Hermione, and Juno) live in the Hall  and work constantly to maintain the property and its businesses.

We decided to go for the morning to explore.

The main hall at Holkham, an impressive estate. Photo by me.

We went on a particularly chilly day and were greeted by red deer at the entrance to the Deer Park.  The wind was picking up, but it didn’t seem to bother them at all.

The deer welcomed us to Holkham. Photo by me

We got to the main Hall before the ticket office officially opened, so we decided to explore the grounds a bit on our own. The lake looked a bit deserted for the day. It might have had something to do with the chilly day.

Boats awaited visitors on the lake at Holkham. Too cold today! Photo by me.

Still it was lovely, although the wind whipped along the open field.  There was a cricket pitch on the left for local matches, and the grounds seemed to go on forever. The estate has hosted major concerts in Britain, including Elton John and Girls Aloud.

Holkham Hall. Photo by me

Holkham is farmed by over 25 tenanted farmers.  We saw everything from wheat, to pigs to cows. Holkham’s ancestral residents were pioneers of rotation crop farming, and they have a large exhibition on it.

Farming tools at the museum. Photo by me

Some of Holkham’s happy tenants. Photo by me.

The estate is still privately owned and leases almost 300 houses to people who live and work locally, as well as two inns, The Victoria and The Globe, restaurants and a caravan park.  They also started, and run to this day, Holkham Linseed Paint.  It is its own little economy and fascinating to see how the family supports this massive estate.

Battered by the chilly breezes, we decided to go back to The Stables Cafe and get a hot cup of latte.

The empty garden, but the baked goods looked great in the cafe. Photo by me.

The tea garden was quite empty but inside it was warmer and very inviting. We bought our tickets to tour the complete grounds and the museum. Outside the cafe, we met a friendly guide who took us around the estate in his open tram, and ended up at the walled garden.  It was incredible.  They had been working on restoring the 6 1/2 acres of garden that had originally been laid out in the 1700s, for over three years,  and still had huge amounts of work to do.

In transition. I think my garden projects are overwhelming, but this is immense! Photo by me.

The boiler heating system had been fixed, and My Beloved Brit was fascinated with the system of pipe works bringing hot water to the outside walls.

My Beloved Brit was fascinated by the boiler and heating system for the glasshouses. There was a huge underground system. This is the chimney. Photo by me

It also heated the Victorian glasshouses which are still being restored.

The glasshouses have underground heating which has been reconnected. Photo by me

It is never-ending. There was garden room after garden room in various stages of restoration. It was interesting to see one of these great gardens going through the process of re-birth.  We’ve seen so many in England where the end results were on display.

The payoff for this chilly morning was the Bygones Museum and History of Farming back at the main house.   It had rooms and rooms of historic memorabilia from cooking utensils, to an old water pump.  And for MBB, the favorite were the cars.

The coutrtyard at the museum at Holkham, filled with all kinds of excellent old vehicles. Photo by me

Everyone who worked at Holkham seemed so happy to be there.  Our guide told us endless stories about how the family had changed the area for the better. Very refreshing to hear.

Time for a warming lunch at a pub on the way back to our Inn. Photo by me

It was another memorable day, even though our toes were numb, and our fingers blue. A perfect day in Norfolk.

St. James’s Park, An Oasis

27 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, Gardens, History, London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I spent a great deal of time in St. James’s Park on Jubilee Weekend because of its proximity to Buckingham Palace and The Mall where many of the regal activities took place.

One of the most elegant entrances to St. James’s Park from The Mall. Photo by me

Skirted by three royal palaces–the ancient Palace of Westminster (now known as The Houses of Parliament), the Tudor styled St. James’s Palace, and Buckingham Palace where the Monarch has lived since 1837–St. James’s Park is located in the heart of historic London. It is also one of the most beautiful parks in the city.

St. James’s Park, one of the prettiest in London. Photo by me

In 1536, King Henry VIII decided to turn the marshy farmland and woods into a deer park conveniently located near his palace at Westminster.

The Palace of Westminster, now known as the Houses of Parliament

He acquired the land and eventually built a hunting lodge on it which finally became St. James’s Palace.

St. Jame’s Palace is just around the corner from The Ritz on a busy London Street during Jubilee. Photo by me.

St. Jame’s Palace borders two worlds, the park and The Mall on one side, and a busy London Street on the other.

The side of St. James’s Palace backs up to St. Jame’s Park. The Palace is still an active court. Photo by me.

After many reincarnations, the park got another makeover in the 1820s in the naturalistic style when George IV did a major renovation project creating many of London’s best-known landmarks, including Regent’s Park and The Mall as a grand boulevard.

The Mall, a grand processional boulevard next to St. James’s Park. Photo by me

It was overseen by landscaper and architect, John Nash. His design is pretty much as you see the park today.

It was designed by John Nash in a natural style.  Photo by me.

The natural curves of the lake fits in beautifully with the English landscaping. Photo by me

A small cottage on the south edge of the park was the bird-keeper’s cottage built in 1841. Photo by me.

You may picnic in the park, but many people prefer to just stroll through the grounds admiring the flower beds…

The flowers bloomed just in time for the Jubilee. Photo by me

 

The color combinations were so creative. Photo by me

…and seeing the amazing collection of wildlife. With over 5.5 million visitors a year it is amazing that the habitat survives.

The park is very well used, especially on bank holiday weekends. Photo by me.

But survive it does, and flourishes. There are over 15 different species of waterfowl in the park.

A mother and her babies in St. James’s. Photo by me

Some of the waterfowl are beautifully colored. Photo by me

To commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, The Royal Parks fashioned a magnificent crown which is a floral replica of the St. Edwards Crown that was used in the crowning of Queen Elizabeth II during her coronation ceremony on 2 June 1953.

The Royal Parks Jubilee Crown. Photo by me.

I could have spent many more hours just getting to know the park a little bit better.  It makes me want to return for a sketching day along the lake. For more information on the Park, visit their website with a click here.

The lake at St. Jame’s Park looking towards the Horse Guards Parade off Whitehall. Photo by me.

 

Kensington Palace

23 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I had so many adventures in England it all seems a blur now that I am home in the US.  I have been going through my photos recalling the details, and realize there were many really special days.

One in particular was a rather dreary morning in London during jubilee weekend. The Queen was busy at Epsom Downs for the races, so I decided to head down to Kensington and see the new renovation of the exhibition halls at the Palace.

A busy dog walker in Kensington Gardens. Photo by me

I decided to take the bus after learning how to get and use an “Oyster” pass.  With the crowds coming in to London for the weekend, it seemed like the sensible thing to do, and it turned out it was easy to use on either a bus or the “underground”.

The busy bus stop at Green Park in London. Photo by me

I got to Kensington Palace at Hyde Park at 10am.  It was gray and misty but lovely and very quiet. Grey skies or not, people seemed to be out enjoying the park and getting on with their day.

People were still enjoying the park despite the misty weather. Photo by me

I did a quick tour of the entry with the statue of Queen Victoria and the sunken gardens, and then headed inside.

Kensington Palace from the sunken garden. Photo by me

The new exhibit was wonderful.  There were several areas to view and each had it’s own personality and distinct style.

The exhibit as a bit cheeky and had a sense of humor to it. Photo by me

The rooms managed to combine the rich history of the royal apartments with a rather modern design element that kept it fresh.

An interesting design representation of Queen Anne’s lost children–out of 18 pregnancies, none survived to adulthood, resulting in the extinction of the House of Stuart, and the throne passed to the Hanovers. Photo by me

I rather like the way London has combined a modern sensibility with their historical past.  I wonder at times if it was a controversial decision or whether the modern Brits just accept it. Everyone seemed quite enthralled by it.

A beautifully restored classic ceiling in the King’s apartments. Photo by me

Either way it was great fun for me, and I actually lingered in many of the spaces, especially the state apartments George I and II.

The staircase to the apartments. Photo by me

There was also a beautiful set of rooms in the exhibition “Victoria Revealed”, where you got a real sense of the life of the wife, mother and woman behind the crown. This is where Victoria spent her childhood and became Queen, and artifacts tell the story of her love for Albert and her great loss when he died.

Victoria’s wedding dress. Photo by me.

And Victoria’s mourning clothes. Photo by me

The temporary display on Princess Diana gave just a brief glimpse in to the life of this famous resident of the Palace,

Two of Diana’s dresses on display. Photo by me

and a chance to see some of her most beautiful dresses.

The whimsical wallpaper leading to the exhibition of five of Diana’s dresses. Photo by me

The golden gates at the south side of the palace were covered in floral tributes to the princess after she died in 1997. In the following days every inch of railing around the palace was covered, “and the flowers stretched out like a carpet into Kensington Gardens.”

The gates to Kensington Palace. Photo by me

It’s interesting to think of the lives that have passed through these hallways.

The history these halls must have witnessed. Photo by me

Prince William and The Duchess of Cambridge (Kate) are now preparing a large apartment in the complex to become their future home.  And so the history will continue to the next generation.

In the entry vestibule, some past and current residents are pictured on the walls. Photo by me

I did enjoy my visit, and loved the touch of whimsy and design detail that carried throughout the exhibition, like this directional sign for the public toilets. Those Brits do have a wonderful sense of humor.

 

It is an amazing place.  It makes the imagination run wild when you think who has walked these hallways.

Kensington Palace with the statue of one of its most famous residents, Queen Victoria. Photo by me.

 

 

All Good Things…

18 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by in Burnham-on-Crouch, England, Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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It has been an incredible 4 weeks in the UK, but I suppose it does have to come to an end sometime.  As miserable as the weather could be at times, as they say here, wait 5 minutes and it will change.

Burnham on a misty morning. Photo by me.

It is time to say goodbye, and what better way than to go out racing with your mates. I am perfectly happy waiting on shore.

It is 7am in the morning, and MBB is with his crew getting the boat ready to start the race. Photo by me.

I can’t remember a better trip.  It was a combination of old favorite places and friends, and new discoveries and fresh faces.

 

MBB with his sailing mates, walking along the sea wall. Photo by me

I have stories to tell for months, so I get to relive my time with all my British memories.  Brilliant, as they say.

It will all be here when we return. This part of England changes very slowly. Photo by me.

At the End of the Day

16 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in Burnham-on-Crouch, England, Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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I love that very British saying ”at the end of the day”. It means  “when all is said and done” in American, and people use it often here to say that when everything is finished, the important thing is this. Appropriate as our trip draws to an end and we reflect on how wonderful everything was.

Young sailors out on the River Crouch. Photo by me

Late yesterday evening we watched a group of young sailors race on the Crouch River outside My Beloved Brit’s yacht club.  The wind was picking up, the light on the river spectacular, and the children having an absolute laugh.

The river has never looked more beautiful. Photo by me

The race for the older sailors this morning has been postponed 24 hours because of high winds expected this afternoon, probably 40-50 mph.  Disappointing for our last weekend in England, but they will try again tomorrow, and, at the end of the day, the safety of the competitors is the most important thing.

Putting the boats away for the night. Photo by me

I understand why MBB loves coming home.

Southwold and Adnams

15 Friday Jun 2012

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We are working our way back to the lower southeast shore, and My Beloved Brit suggested a stop in Southwold, located on the eastern coast in Suffolk.

High Street in Southwold. Photo by me.

It is an upscale beach community with many beautiful homes, many of them second homes for Londoners.

The green in Southwold with houses running down to the sea. Photo by me.

We found a strange little historic “restaurant with rooms”, The Sutherland House, believed to be constructed in about 1455 with Georgian and Victorian extensions.  Our suite is two rooms in what might be considered the attic, above the high street of the town.

Our lovely 15th century room. Photo by me.

There are very low ceilings with exposed beams , great space and a book on the table explaining the family’s heroic restoration efforts on the restaurant and a few rooms. Braver people than I.

The small hall between bedroom and living area. Photo by me.

The town revolves around the sea…

The coast stretches along the edge of Southwold, whipped by the wind. Photo by me.

…and Adnams & Coy Brewery, which MBB arranged us to partake in a tour.

The little Adnams Brewery right in the middle in town. Photo by me

It is a small brewery, but has stayed in the village for many decades, and is still family run.

The employees of the brewery have lunch in the green outside the gates. Photo by me

The tour was only for about 10 people, and we got a lovely tasting at the end.

We got to see the whole process, and had a tasting at the end. Photo by me.

It was a fun visit, and we goth to go to the an Adnams’ pub for dinner in the evening.

An Adnams’ pub in town where we had dinner. They had 4 or 5 located in Southwold. Photo by me.

Still love a good pub. Nothing like fish and chips with the sounds of gulls outside the window.

 

Norfolk, on the Edge of the Sea

14 Thursday Jun 2012

Posted by in Art Museums & Exhibitions, England, Gardens, History, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Flat as yer hat. That’s what My Beloved Brit’s comment was as we drove north through Norfolk.  And he was right.  Huge expanses of level fields and hedgerows to the edge of the sea were everywhere we looked.

The flat fields of Norfolk. Photo by me.

We are staying in a great Best Western (Le Strange Arms…a strange name) right on the edge of the sea in Old Hunstanton and used it as our base this week to explore Norfolk. It was perfect.

Our escape next to the sea. Photo by me

We were pleasantly surprised to have a room with a separate living area with many large windows facing the sea, and have had great pleasure viewing it at all times day and night, no matter what the weather.

Our view. Photo by me.

The sky and sea is always dramatic.

Sunset at Le StrangeArms comes late. Photo by me.

We have gotten out and about during the day exploring the area.  And the week has turned from chilly and rainy at the start in Sandringham…

Sandringham in the rain. Photo by me

…to chilly and partly cloudy at Houghton Hall. A definite improvement. It is all relative.

Houghton Hall and the skies are clearing. Believe it or not, this is good weather. Photo by me.

I promise future posts on the amazing homes and gardens we have seen this week, but for the moment I am focusing on what makes Norfolk Norfolk…at least to me.

The north coast of Norfolk near Wells-next-to-Sea. Photo by me.

It is very rural, with lots of farming (from lavender to cows) and many beachy seafront villages that cater to the family on holiday.

The beach in Hunstanton. Photo by me

It reminds me a bit of Holland with the scattering of windmills about…

A windmill in Cley, on the Norfolk Coast. Photo by me

and the many canals with dikes separating the flat fields of cows from the irrigation.

Thoughtful cows at Holkham. Photo by me.

There are a scattering of excellent large estates that were well worth the visit.

The estate at Holkham on the chilliest day of our trip so far. Photo by me

I love the buildings in the area, faced in different patterns of red and white stone.  Everything is done in these stones in a huge variety of patterns.

The stone on the buildings in Norfolk are in all sorts of patterns. Photo by me

Stone like mosaic on the sides of buildings. Photo by me

But the beaches seem to be the main attraction, and even in this chilly grey month of June (everyone keeps telling us this is the coldest June in 8 years), the beaches are busy with dog walkers and children running in the sand.

Little beach huts line the shore in the resort town of Wells-Next-to-Sea. Photo by me

The beach is busy, even on a cold June afternoon. Photo by me

The area does seem a bit hard hit from the economy downturn with lots of For Sale signs and empty storefronts, but people are still very cheerful and extremely friendly. One of the things I notice over and over again in England is how absolutely polite people are.  Manners are still very important, especially in rural England, and Norfolk is no exception.

The seaside resort town of Hunstanton where there seems to be more ice cream and Fish ‘n’ Chip shops than anywhere we have seen on this trip. Photo by me

I will miss this area.  It is always wonderful to make a new discovery. But tomorrow we head south again for a weekend of sailing for MBB…the forecast is for cold and rain.

Sandringham, the Queen’s Norfolk Retreat

12 Tuesday Jun 2012

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We’ve come north to Norfolk to see the Queen’s residence in Sandringham.  It was raining yesterday (yes, again) and although we were also going to be in the area today, it was listed on the internet as being closed on this particular Tuesday.

When My Beloved Brit (with rain dripping down his neck) inquired at the ticket office as to why we did not have the option of coming tomorrow, we were told it was the Queen’s Garden Party in honor of the Diamond Jubilee. They were setting up tents everywhere for their nearest and dearest…4,000 guests…as we went through.

The tents were being set up for the Queen's Garden Party. Photo by me.

Our invitation must have been lost in the post. Rumour had it that she was already in the area, but we never did run in to her or her corgis.

Sandringham is lovely, even in the rain. Photo by me.

It was still a lovely visit.The gardens were being spruced up for the party.

The gardens were freshly weeded and pruned. Photo by me.

As we approached in the rain, we could see they were setting up for the big event, so we went around the side to the main entrance.

Sandringham. Photo by me

You actually may tour much of the living area of the main floor which is lovely (no photos allowed).  In the main drawing-room, the Queen’s special felt covered table where she does her jigsaw puzzles was in direct view of the fireplace. It all looked very cozy.The dining room was exquisite. And the carpets! We left the main house in awe and crossed the green towards the museum.

Even with the rain it was perfect.  The trees on the estate are magnificent.  Every time you turn a corner you see one more impressive than the last.

On the path to the museum in the old stable complex. Photo by me

We found the museum which was filled with a wide variety of vintage cars that the Royal Family had owned and used on the estate. MBB was a happy man. I’ll try to do a  post on that in the future, but suffice it to say, I would have been proud to own any one of those cars, even the ones used to carry the luggage from the train station.

The museum had a wide variety of The Royal Family's classic vehicles. Photo by me

We headed towards the exit of the property to return to the car park, and wandered along the lake.

The grounds were magnificent. Photo by me

We constantly saw people preparing for the party the next day.  All of the guides in the house were talking about it and what they might wear if it was still raining. The excitement was building.

Everywhere people were primping the house and grounds awaiting the Queen's party. Photo by me

The gardens all looked perfect to me, and each time we made a turn on the road through the grounds we decided it was our new favorite view.

Sandringham from across the lake. Photo by me

Finally we approached the small church, so familiar from the news photos of the Royal Family attending services there every Christmas.

St. Mary Magdalen's Church at Sandringham. Photo by me

MBB teases me that he’s seen more of England since he met me than he has in a lifetime, especially anything having to do with The Royal Family.  I think Sandringham is the last of the Royal Residences on our list of grand houses to see. I asked him which was his favorite, but they are all so different and beautiful in their own way, it is just too hard to choose.

I thought of the Queen today. The sun has just appeared which has been very rare in the past couple of weeks.  The ladies can wear their special outfits for the Garden Party this afternoon.

A Medieval Visit, Penshurst Place and Gardens

09 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in Art Museums & Exhibitions, Gardens, History, movies, Travel, United Kingdom

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We continued through the countryside in Kent, and came across another great estate, Penshurst Place, surrounded by ancient parkland.  I had read about this grand building, parts of which dated back to the 14th century.  The halls and rooms were incredible and even more so when you realized that the heart of the house was medieval from the Tudor period. Henry VIII was said to have used it as a hunting lodge.

The entryway to the grand hall. Photo by me

It has been described as “the grandest and most perfectly preserved example of a fortified manor house in all England”.

The magnificent stone work was matched by the woodworking inside. Photo by me

I loved the sense of history here. It really was just a family historic home, but every time you turned a corner, you expected to run into a medieval nobleman or lady. We just have nothing that can compare to this in the United States, and it humbles you to realize the long, vast history of English-speaking people.

A gardener works on through the rain showers just outside the hall. Photo by me

Many films have been made here, including The Other Boleyn Girl. Sound recordists from the Harry Potter film series came and recorded floor creaks in the Long Gallery to get authentic sound effects.

You can imagine Henry VIII sweeping through the courtyards. Photo by me

After a quick tour of the building, My Beloved Brit and I went out in to the gardens. We started by crossing the sunken garden outside the main structure.

The sunken garden. Photo by me.

We passed down a few long passages of gardens in rainbow hues, some quite whimsical in their design…

The dramatic skies just made it more wonderful. Photo by me

The showers made everything so lush. Photo by me

Each garden held a bit of a surprise.All photos by me.

…and then we entered a maze of exquisite garden “rooms”. Each had their own personality.

A "secret room", buried in the garden maze. Photo by me

They were varied and lovely, even in the rain which kept starting and stopping.  It didn’t matter at all.  Sun or grey, they were lovely.

The wind blows the fountain on a grey day in the gardens. Photo by me

You could get lost in the many passages as you cut through the “doorways” in the hedge walls that separated them.

It was unique and lovely and made for a truly wonderful afternoon.

I love Kent, fondly known as “England’s Garden”.  Aptly named.

Every time you are tempted to curse the rain, you realize that it is responsible for these extraordinary explosions of nature. I love every drop.

The Jubilee Day of Thanksgiving

05 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by in England, History, London, The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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It is another busy day in London, and it is not supposed to rain until this afternoon, so what better way to spend a morning than to see if I can catch a glimpse of the Queen. Unfortunately, Prince Philip is in hospital and will not be able to join her today, and I am sure he will be on her mind most of the day.  It is a shame he can’t be there to share all the special events with her.

Around the corner at St. James's Palace, and free flags to wave from The Daily Mirror. Photo by me

I wandered down to the Mall and glued myself as close as I could to the railing with many others to wait for the Queen drive by on the way to St. Paul’s.

Massive, friendly crowds...again. Photo by me.

The  crowd, as always was in a splendid mood and burst into song “God Save The Queen” and “Rule Britannia” at a moments notice.  There were two groups on either side of The Mall that often broke into a cheering and flag waving competition.  All very high-spirited and fun.

Definitely, non-stop, the best hat of the Jubilee. Photo by me

And I did manage to see the flash of pale blue as The Queen drove by following the car with Prince Charles and Camilla.

The Queen passed by and gave me a wave. It is all a blur. Photo by me

It was actually pretty exciting, and I must say, I have a sense of satisfaction that I have seen the Queen in her Jubilee Year. There was something poignant about her sitting with her Lady in Waiting, The Lady Farnham, rather than Prince Philip, but she was still all smiles when she reached St. Paul’s. You’ve got to love this woman. She just keeps soldiering on.

The web cam was massive and great to catch up on other areas of the celebration. Photo by me

This lucky person was obviously at the Buckingham Palace Garden Picnic last night as witnessed by her official picnic basket. They were given to ticket holders as a gift! Photo by me

I watched a few minutes of the service at St. Paul’s Cathedral on the large screen in St. James’s with many others…

The Mall and St James's was filling up fast. By 12:30 when I passed it again, they had stopped any additional access. It was full. Photo by me.

…and then headed back to pack up and head off. I had to get to Charing Cross Station which was right in the middle of all the motorcades winding back and forth throughout the day.  This was going to be interesting.

The Mall waiting for the carriage procession at 2:30. Photo by me

I passed streams of people heading to the Mall to see the procession and appearance on the balcony later this afternoon.

The crowds just keep streaming towards the mall and parade route. Photo by me

And so I am off to Kent today to meet up with My Beloved Brit.  He has promised me a day or two of magnificent garden tours if weather permits before we enjoy the company of some of his family we haven’t seen in ages. The perfect way to end a perfectly wonderful Jubilee Celebration.