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Category Archives: United Kingdom

St. David’s, Wales

11 Wednesday Sep 2013

Posted by pat in Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Barry Flanagan, Caerfai Bay, Pembrokeshire, St. David's, Wales

At the western most coast of the British Isle, there is St. David’s, Wales, and it is stunning.

A fourteenth century cross in the center of St. David's. Photo by me

A fourteenth century cross in the center of St. David’s. Photo by me

We came in after driving for hours behind a “wide load” vehicle through the countryside.  It was a slow, agonizing trip.

The town of St. David's slopes down towards the sea. Photo by me

The town of St. David’s slopes down towards the sea. Photo by me

But at the end was the small coastal town of St. David’s.

St David's. Photo by me.

St David’s. Photo by me.

Near the cathedral. Photo by me

Near the cathedral in the center of the “city”. Photo by me

The town in Pembrokeshire, Wales, is billed as the smallest city in Great Britain, both in size and population. It is also the final resting place of Saint David, the country’s patron saint.  The village of St. David’s was given city status in the 16th century due to the presence of St David’s Cathedral but lost the recognition in 1888.  City status was restored in 1994 at the request of Queen Elizabeth.

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St David’s Cathedral. Photo by me

St. David’s is a unique area.  It is very Welsh.  You see the signs in the Welsh language everywhere, and the food has local favorites like Welsh Cakes.  There is also fabulous seafood to be had.  The nearby fishing village of Solva provides an endless supply.

The grove, our home away from home. Photo by me

The Grove, our “restaurant with rooms” and home away from home. Photo by me

And on the edge of town is a great visitors center with a beautiful art gallery.

"Small Nijinsky Hare", Barry Flanagan. Photo by me.

“Small Nijinsky Hare”, Barry Flanagan. Photo by me.

Cwn Gwylt, Bay Catrin Howell. Sculpture of wild dogs is Howell's response to the legend of the sunken kingdom believed to lie between Ramsey and Bardsey islands. Photo by me.

Cwn Gwylt, Bay Catrin Howell. Sculpture of wild dogs is Howell’s response to the legend of the sunken kingdom believed to lie between Ramsey and Bardsey islands. Photo by me.

It was time to see the famous Wales’ coastline.

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Just outside “the city”. Photo by me.

Late afternoon and before the predicted rains, I decided to take a walk down the side road to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and Caerfai Bay.

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Small cottages, campgrounds and farms line the road down to the sea. Photo by me.

And organic farm and campground. Photo by me.

And organic farm and campground. Photo by me.

Camping in Wales.  Photo by me.

Camping in Wales. Photo by me.

Laundry day in Wales. Photo by me.

Laundry day. Photo by me.

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From the Coastal Path as the rain approaches. Photo by me.

Photo by me

The well-travelled coastal path. Photo by me

The Irish Sea is treacherous and notorious for very strong tides and large numbers of offshore rocks. And it brings in lots of rain.

All those consonant and very few vowels...Welsh. Photo by me

All those consonant and very few vowels…Welsh. Photo by me

Photo by me

A hidden beach with cliffs of distinctive red sandstone. Photo by me

Carved in the stone on the side of the path.  Photo by me

Carved in the stone on the side of the path. There were symbols etched all over the area.  I have no idea by who. Photo by me

The whole area has a rather “new-age” vibe, with surfers, druids and artists all in the mix. There are a number of interesting archaeological sites along the coast such as burial chambers, Stone Age hut circles and Iron Age field systems.  It is also said this was the site where St. Patrick stood when he had the vision to travel to Ireland to convert the Irish to Christianity.

Photo by me

Looking out towards Ireland. Photo by me

Photo by me

Many dairy and sheep farms lined the coast. Photo by me

Photo by me

Photo by me

This walk along this lonely cliff was one of the highlights of my summer.  I felt like I was on the ends of the earth.

Summer’s End in Cornwall

23 Friday Aug 2013

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, entertainment, Travel, United Kingdom

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Bank Holiday, beaches, Charlestown, labor day

The last few weeks of August the people of England flood to the beaches of Cornwall.  It is warm by their standards (in the 70s), and you see them with their pails and shovels and beach chairs, children in tow, going down to the rocky, seaweed strewn beaches.

IMG_9014This is in Charlestown in Cornwall on the southwest coast of England, a seafaring town with ancient ships and lovely beaches. And the British flock there with their families in August for the last gasp of summer.

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Monday is England’s “bank holiday”, comparable to our Labor Day in the states. The end of summer.  Bittersweet.

Cambridge Punts

09 Friday Aug 2013

Posted by pat in England, Travel, United Kingdom

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Cambridge, punts, River Cam

We arrived in the UK yesterday morning after a long red-eye flight to Heathrow, and made our way up to the banks of the River Cam, Cambridge, to try to adjust to England time.  It was the perfect spot to recover.

Our hotel in Cambridge, a Doubletree by Hilton, rear left on the River Cam. Photo by me

Our hotel in Cambridge, a Doubletree by Hilton, rear left on the River Cam. Photo by me

Our room was not ready when we arrived late morning, but we managed to sit in the back garden of the hotel, and watch with great amusement as people made their way down the river on the classic mode of transportation, the punt.

The punts lined up on the River Cam ready for action. Photo by me.

The punts lined up on the River Cam ready for action. Photo by me.

Right down the block there are many vendors offering “chauffeured” punt tours of the river, a perfect way to see the backside of the great university and colleges that line the shore. By chauffeured, they mean that someone does the hard work for you.

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Some “punters” were quite skilled and comfortable with the boats. Photo by me.

But you can also rent the plain wooden punts yourself, and many did on this mildly warm summer afternoon. We decided to stick to the river’s edge, and watch the action from the shore.

A perfect day to rent a punt. Photo by me.

A perfect day to rent a punt. Photo by me.

The level of expertise at guiding the boats down the river with long wooden poles pushing in the mud, varied greatly.

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But it was all done with great humor, and much camaraderie and laughter.

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The best was to watch the older boatmen try to move the punts from one part of the river, over the embankment by lifting it and repositioning it in the new tributary.

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In order to get the punt from one side of the tow path to the other you had to lift it out and carry it over. Quite a procedure. Photo by me.

It became even more humorous when a parade of cows coming by on the same path, who obviously had the run of the river shores, decided to join the chaos.  My camera was still in my bag waiting to get to the room so I missed the shot of the day, but we will talk about that site for years to come.

It’s good to be back in England.

What to pack for a vacation in Great Britain?

01 Thursday Aug 2013

Posted by pat in Cornwall, England, London, Peak District, Scotland, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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launderette, packing

What should you pack for a vacation in Great Britain? Layers. And more layers.

Down to the sweater layer in Asford in the Water in the Peak District. Photo by My Beloved Brit.

Down to the sweater layer in Ashford-in-the-Water in the Peak District on a summer morning going for a walk. Photo by My Beloved Brit.

It is positively the only way to go. The thing about England is, no matter what the weather is at the moment, it is sure to change shortly. And it is almost impossible to predict the temperatures for any given season. When we were in Scotland last summer, everyone assured us it would be damp and chilly.  It was sunny, bright and in the 80s–for days!

A very warm, sunny day in the gardens at Balmoral in Scotland in June. Photo by me.

A very warm, sunny day in the gardens at Balmoral in Scotland in early June. Photo by me.

Very unusual, yes. But we have learned in the UK to expect the unexpected and pack accordingly.

The crowds head to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen on the Diamond Jubilee weekend June 2012. Photo by me.

The crowds head to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen on the Diamond Jubilee weekend June 2012. Notice the light jackets, and brollies in hand. Photo by me.

Now, granted, we tend to go for long stretches of time…sometimes 5 or 6 weeks (we have a lot of family and friends to visit).  But the basics are the same.

1.  Don’t pack for a year.

There are laundrette’s all over the UK, and it is a great way to pass an hour or two with the locals and catch up on your reading. You can easily go online, google the town you will be in, and “laundrettes”, or ask at your B&B or hotel.  They will know. Service wash means the laundrette will do your wash for you and you can pick it up later or the next day.  Self Service means you do it yourself, which is what we do. Usually we are driving, and at the beginning of the trip we stop at a grocery store and get a small bottle of laundry detergent. Or the laundrettes usually have them available for purchase. Our detergent stays with us for the trip and makes it even easier to do laundry on the road.

Our favorite laundrette in Burnham on Crouch, England. Photo by me

Our favorite laundrette in Burnham on Crouch, England. Photo by me

2. Make it easy and comfortable

Pack things that are wrinkle free if you don’t want to iron, although many hotels now have facilities to iron.  I usually bring a pair of jeans for those country walks, and a couple of pairs of lighter washable slacks–one that is dressier for dinners out.  Instead of shirts, I bring knits–t-shirts for me, polos for him, and light, washable cotton sweaters (jumpers in Brit speak). My Beloved Brit always likes a few buttoned collared shirts of the wash and wear variety for when we go out. I bring one or two washable wrinkle free skirts just in case it gets really warm.  MBB does bring one pair of shorts just in case.  But we find even when all his friends have shorts on, we might have two or three layers of long pants, t-shirts and jumpers on. MBB calls it being unclimatized. We’ve never regretted not packing a bathing suit.

A fine, sunny day in England and the shorts have appeared. Photo by me

A fine, sunny day in England and the shorts have appeared. Photo by me

3.  Outerwear and an umbrella

Bring a scarf or two for around the neck, and preferably a rain-resistant jacket (or coat depending on the season) with a little warmth to it, just in case. I also usually pack a light, packable small umbrella.  It is England after all. Rain comes and goes. When I did the Diamond Jubilee week in London last year, it rained lightly off and on over the weekend.  I was fine with my layers, my little “brollie” and a smile.  It was a great time.

Jubilee weekend.  Brollies are up for a moment but the crowds don't care.  Notice the layers of clothing. Photo by me

Jubilee weekend. Brollies are up for a moment but the crowds don’t care. Notice the layers of clothing. Photo by me

4. Shoes.

Always a dilemma.  First and foremost is comfort.  England is known to be a wonderfully walkable place, so plan on taking walks in the country, through villages and footpaths, or long rambles around London.

My Beloved Brit and his cousins walking in to Foey, Cornwall for Fish 'n' Chips.  Notice the English women have sandals on! Photo by me.

My Beloved Brit and his cousins walking in to Fowey, Cornwall in search of Fish ‘n’ Chips. Notice his English cousins have sandals on! Photo by me.

There’s usually public transportation, but walking is how you really get to see a country, and get a sense of the natives.  I usually opt for two pairs of very comfortable walking shoes that I can wear with socks, one pair a bit dressier to wear with the nice slacks. I also like a good pair of sandles in the summer for those days when you just feel like wiggling your toes in the sun, and to wear with my skirt.

My Beloved Brit actually has shorts on again as we check in to our room in England. Notice the limited amount of luggage. Photo by me.

My Beloved Brit actually has shorts on again as we check in to our room in England. Notice the limited amount of luggage. There’s also always one large duffel for sailing gear. Photo by me.

5. For those special occasions.

Dressed for a wedding reception at a sailing club.

Dressed for a wedding reception at a sailing club.

 

Then usually I bring one nice dress, often a very packable light knit, and a sweater I can wear with it for cold evenings.

For most restaurants and gatherings we go to , this is as dressy as we need.  I bring my pearls and good earrings in case it gets really dressy.

MBB does bring a solid colored sports coat and one tie, just in case there is a sailing race dinner at a club that requires it.

 

 

 

And that is pretty much it.  You start out on a summer morning with a pair of cotton slacks, a t-shirt, a sweater and maybe a rain jacket with a scarf around your neck.  By noon hopefully you’re down to the t-shirt, but more likely you are at sweater level.  And of course just when you think you have it all figured out, it changes and the temps are in the 80s for five days in a row.

Holidaymakers in Charlestown, Cornwall.  There were kids swimming nearby. Photo by me.

Holiday makers in Charlestown, Cornwall. There were kids swimming nearby. Photo by me.

No matter.  A laundrette makes it all workable, and no one cares if you wear the same three outfits over and over.  Just pick what you love and what you are comfortable with.  It’s a snap.

An early morning walk on a summers day in England. Photo by me.

An early morning walk on a summer’s day in England. Photo by me.

And then My Beloved Brit needs to bring all his sailing gear–boots, foul weather gear, thermals–which is a whole other story, and why we try to pack so light otherwise…

MBB dressed in many waterproof layers for sailing. Photo by me.

MBB dressed in many waterproof layers for sailing. Photo by me.

 

The Urban Fox

29 Monday Apr 2013

Posted by pat in London, Scotland, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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red fox, Urban fox

When we were in London several years ago, My Beloved Brit and I were walking back from a pub on a dark narrow street, and were surprised to hear a noise in the nearby alley.  Looking down the narrow passageway, we saw a red, fuzzy tailed creature escaping from a row of trash cans.  The London urban fox.

The Red Fox. photo from creative commons.

The Red Fox. photo from creative commons.

Great Britain and foxes have always been closely associated.  The red fox is right in there with a cup of tea, the red telephone box and plaid wool.  But to see one on a London street was really quite surprising.

The mammal is native to England, and English literature has always made room for the creature– from Reynard the fox in The Canterbury Tales, to Roald Dahl’s Fantastic Mr. Fox.  The Scottish heroine Isabel Dalhousie of Alexander McCall Smith’s “The Sunday Philosophy Club” novels, welcomes the stealthy presence of a fox in her garden in the city of Edinburgh. Perhaps to her it is a symbol of the wild traditions of the country.

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Although the sport of fox-hunting was outlawed in England and Wales in 2005, some of the wily creatures still seem to prefer the cities to the open fields of the countryside. I must admit, London seems a pleasant place to live. I guess the little fox agrees.

Twee

24 Sunday Feb 2013

Posted by pat in Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Downton Abbey, language, movies, twee

Twee. Such a sweet word.  And that is just what it means.  According to Webster…

Chiefly British: affectedly or excessively dainty, delicate, cute, or quaint. Example: The movie was a bit twee for my taste.

A London shop window during jubilee. Twee? I think so.  Photo by me.

A London shop window during jubilee. Twee? I think so. Photo by me.

The first known use was in 1905, and the origin is thought to be the baby-talk alteration of sweet.

Now, some of my British friends have referred to Downton Abbey as twee. And I was taken aback when looking at descriptions of one of my favorite British sit-coms, As Time Goes By to see that it was suggested it might be a bit “twee”.

A cottage in Castle Combe that is lovingly, purposefully "twee". Photo by me

A cottage in Castle Combe that is lovingly, purposefully “twee”. Photo by me

Of course, we American are just suckers for twee. That is what many of us expect to see when we travel to England, or go to a British film. Think of the movie The Holiday, or Sense and Sensibility.

It makes me think I might like a world that is just a bit twee, although, like too much chocolate, you can sometimes have too much of a good thing.

Thames Sailing Barges

09 Wednesday Jan 2013

Posted by pat in England, History, Sailing, United Kingdom

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Maldon, Thames Sailing Barges

Last summer, we spent a lovely afternoon in Maldon looking at the Thames sailing barges moored there in regal splendor.  They are sculptural and historic, and were used to transport supplies up and down the coast. Now you can charter them for the day, but some still work.

The Thames sailing barges line the seawall of Maldon in Essex. Photo by me.

Each had its own style, colors and beautiful woodwork.  The patterns of the masts against the sky were graphic and strong.

Masts. Photo by me

I love that England is an island, and so much of the country centers on boats and especially sailing.  The great naval power and all that. I grew up on Long Island in New York, so maybe I just feel at home surrounded by water.

Photo by me

But what is so interesting in Great Britain, is that each section of the country seems to have its own design of boat and navigational style.  Being married to My Beloved Brit, an avid sailor, I have my own personal tour guide when we visit these ports. And he is always willing to spend the time walking along the docks and explaining the idiosyncrasies of each boat to me.

photo by me

The Barge Trust has lovingly labelled all these historic barges with details of their history.  MBB could have spent hours here just looking.

Photo by me.

But my favorite sign had to be this one…

photo by me

You have been warned.

Sandringham at Christmas, and a Year to Remember

24 Monday Dec 2012

Posted by pat in The Royal Family, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Christmas, Norfolk, Sandringham

It was so lovely to see Sandringham this past summer when we were in England.

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It was just on the heels of the Jubilee Celebration in London, and we managed to visit one day ahead of the Queen, who was holding a very large garden party on the lawn the next day.

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With all the excitement over the Duchess of Cambridge’s pregnancy this Christmas season and will she or won’t she be at Sandringham with the Royal Family as tradition usually dictates,  it brought back memories of this beautiful place set in the Norfolk countryside.

This winter I can now actually visualize The Queen sitting with her family in the lovely drawing-room, perhaps working on a particularly tricky corner at her special jigsaw puzzle table. And I am hoping the Duke and Duchess get a chance to enjoy the cottage his grandmother gave him on the estate in honor of his 30th birthday. But perhaps this will be the year they spend Christmas with her family, and squeeze in a visit to the royal side of the family sometime over the holiday week. That is what the word is.

Still, when the English news shows the Royal Family walking to chapel on Christmas morning, I will remember it from last summer. When we were there, it looked so familiar from all the past Christmas photos. And this year the Queen did her Christmas message in 3-D…the old and the new.  Ever the modern Queen who also honors tradition.

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St. Mary Magdalen’s Church across the gardens and fields from the Queen’s Sandringham Estate. Photo by me

2012 was a year to remember, with not one, but two visits for me this year to England.  One in the late spring and early June, just in time for the Queen’s huge Diamond Jubilee Celebration in London.

The night of the Jubilee Concert at Buckin

The night of the Jubilee Concert at Buckingham Palace. Photo by me June 2012

And later in November to work on the creative workshop we are planning for next September in Bath.

The River Avon runs through Bath. Photo by me.

The River Avon runs through Bath. Photo by me.

In between was the Olympics (which I devoured on TV), and lots of happy news from relatives and friends on both sides of the pond (including my first grand-niece !!!!!).

And then of course, right before Christmas the announcement of the royal baby on his or her way.  Lovely that it will wear the crown either way–boy or girl. As long as the new future monarch is happy and healthy, what does it matter.

What an incredible year.

The Botanical Gardens of Bath

22 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, England, Gardens, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Bath Botanical Gardens, Queen's Square, Royal Crescent, Royal Victoria Park

I thought you all deserved a leisurely stroll through a gorgeous autumnal setting in honor of that very American celebration, Thanksgiving. So take a break from cooking that turkey, grab a cup of tea, and come along.

Tucked off to the western edge of Bath, past The Royal Crescent , are the Botanical Gardens of Bath. And what better time to visit as the season changes from autumn to winter.

The Botanical Gardens of Bath. Photo by me

Getting there is half the joy. I headed off around Queen’s Square, through the gates to Royal Victoria Park, you came to the very edge of the historic downtown…

Queen's Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Queen’s Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Cutting across the park just south of the Royal Crescent. Photo by me

…and the beginning of a gorgeous expanse of greens and groves of trees.

The Botanical Gardens are in the distance, through groves of trees. Photo by me

I walked through what seemed liked pristine English countryside, and finally got to the entrance of the gardens.

Photo by me

Photo by me

Photo by me

The Botanical Gardens, set inside Royal Victoria Park, were designed in 1887 and within their 9 acres of rambling walks is an incredible collection of plants on limestone.

Across from the entrance to the gardens is “The Great Dell”. Photo by me

In classic English style the winding paths revealed quiet coves and gentle gardens each with their seemingly random nature, but actually beautifully planned.

Photo by me

It was well worth the walk.

Winter is finally approaching Bath. Photo by me

A last burst signaling the end of autumn. Photo by me

A place to rest before the walk back to city centre. Photo by me

The path back to town. Photo by me

Back to Bath Center, and lunch before my train leaves for London.

 

 

Food, glorious food

15 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, England, Food, Travel, United Kingdom

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

restaurants, Sally Lunn's

I am bound to have put on a few pounds this week taste testing my way through Bath.  It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it.

Part of my research is to find suitable restaurants for a couple of group dinners for the planned workshop, and there are so many good dining venues in Bath that My Beloved Brit’s cousins from Andover are joining me for a night to help me out. We taste-tested Hall and Woodhouse, the new hot restaurant in Bath, and it was great.

Hall and Woodhouse–a brewery re-born as a modern restaurant. Photo by me

A tiny chicken and chips. Photo by me

I tried Jamie’s Italian for my first lunch in Bath and it was quite the experience.  It is celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s chain, so I was thinking it might be run of the mill, but the building was a funky take in a historic old Georgian building, with lots of fun decor and a rustic feel to match the food.

Wild mushrooms in pasta pillows with a rocket and parmesan salad. Photo by me

The food was quite good and a very different menu. Across the courtyard they also had a small deli and gift shop.

The bar area at Jamie’s Italian. Photo by me

Jamie’s Italian floats above Bath in this renovation of old Georgian space. Photo of me

I also tried a wood burning oven pizza restaurant for dinner.  (Italian is big is this town–I guess it is the Roman influence). The atmosphere was great, the pizza ok.  But when I saw “California Grill” on the window, I thought this is not what Americans would travel overseas for.

Firehouse. Photo by me

And of course while I was in Bath, I had to try the Sally Lunn’s, home of the original Bath Bun, in one of the oldest homes in Bath.

Sally Lunn’s. Photo by me

I wasn’t expecting much, and yes, it was flooded with international tourists.  But I had the salmon and dill “bun” and a fabulous pot of green tea, and on a chilly rainy day it was just perfect to be packed in with other bun lovers.

Salmon and Dill on Sally’s bun. Photo by me

And just for My Beloved Brit back home safe from the cold rain, I saw this sausage stand out on the street the other day…and thought, I have to take a photo.

There’s nothing like an English sausage. Photo by me

The best meal of the week goes to the day trip I made with MBB’s cousins to Castle Combe and the Castle Inn. Even though it was grey all day, it was the absolute perfect English outing.  I promise a more detailed post later on about Castle Combe and the Castle Inn.

Castle Combe. Is this the perfect English Village, or what? Photo by me

The Castle Inn, where we had lunch. It was perfect. Photo by me

And for my last meal, I was back in Bath for lunch before I left for London to fly from Heathrow in the morning.

One of the hidden courtyards in Bath where you can find all kinds of secret treasures. Photo by me

This is one of the last independently locally owned restaurants left in Bath, and it was packed. Good for them. Photo by me.

Chicken and parma ham to sustain me for the train ride back to London/Heathrow. Photo by me

Back home tonight! Back to sensible eating.

 

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