Driving across Wales

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After we left St. David’s on the southwest coast of Wales, we headed up to the north coast.

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I wanted to see Anglesey, and we were going to stay at Llandudno, a Victorian Beach Resort town on Colwyn Bay. It was a 4 1/2 hour drive.  It was not boring.

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My Beloved Brit volunteered to drive the narrow winding roads along the coast…

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through the small villages and towns…

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that made their home by the sea.

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This is Wales as I imagined it.  We wound around the coast on the western most edge of the UK.

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And then on up in to the Snowdonia National Park.

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Mountains and the sea. As we left the coast behind, the roads seemed to get darker and windier.

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It was one of the times on this trip when I really felt like we were on holiday.

IMG_9849As we headed in to town at Llandudno,  I was rather sorry to leave the coast and mountains of Wales.

IMG_9851The next morning we headed over to the island of Anglesey.  It proved another lovely drive.

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We drove out to Holyhead where the ferries leave for Ireland.  It started raining…again… and as we saw a rescue helicopter overhead, I wondered if it was Prince William whose RAF base was nearby. f course in the news this week, it was announced that it was his last week at this job.  Perhaps this was his last flight.

 

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As we crossed the bridge back to mainland Wales, it was time to head east to England.

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We must have seen a half-dozen rainbows driving out of Wales.  Quite amazing. IMG_9879

Wales does have its own personality.  Rugged, and artsy and beautiful.

St. David’s, Wales

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At the western most coast of the British Isle, there is St. David’s, Wales, and it is stunning.

A fourteenth century cross in the center of St. David's. Photo by me

A fourteenth century cross in the center of St. David’s. Photo by me

We came in after driving for hours behind a “wide load” vehicle through the countryside.  It was a slow, agonizing trip.

The town of St. David's slopes down towards the sea. Photo by me

The town of St. David’s slopes down towards the sea. Photo by me

But at the end was the small coastal town of St. David’s.

St David's. Photo by me.

St David’s. Photo by me.

Near the cathedral. Photo by me

Near the cathedral in the center of the “city”. Photo by me

The town in Pembrokeshire, Wales, is billed as the smallest city in Great Britain, both in size and population. It is also the final resting place of Saint David, the country’s patron saint.  The village of St. David’s was given city status in the 16th century due to the presence of St David’s Cathedral but lost the recognition in 1888.  City status was restored in 1994 at the request of Queen Elizabeth.

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St David’s Cathedral. Photo by me

St. David’s is a unique area.  It is very Welsh.  You see the signs in the Welsh language everywhere, and the food has local favorites like Welsh Cakes.  There is also fabulous seafood to be had.  The nearby fishing village of Solva provides an endless supply.

The grove, our home away from home. Photo by me

The Grove, our “restaurant with rooms” and home away from home. Photo by me

And on the edge of town is a great visitors center with a beautiful art gallery.

"Small Nijinsky Hare", Barry Flanagan. Photo by me.

“Small Nijinsky Hare”, Barry Flanagan. Photo by me.

Cwn Gwylt, Bay Catrin Howell. Sculpture of wild dogs is Howell's response to the legend of the sunken kingdom believed to lie between Ramsey and Bardsey islands. Photo by me.

Cwn Gwylt, Bay Catrin Howell. Sculpture of wild dogs is Howell’s response to the legend of the sunken kingdom believed to lie between Ramsey and Bardsey islands. Photo by me.

It was time to see the famous Wales’ coastline.

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Just outside “the city”. Photo by me.

Late afternoon and before the predicted rains, I decided to take a walk down the side road to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and Caerfai Bay.

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Small cottages, campgrounds and farms line the road down to the sea. Photo by me.

And organic farm and campground. Photo by me.

And organic farm and campground. Photo by me.

Camping in Wales.  Photo by me.

Camping in Wales. Photo by me.

Laundry day in Wales. Photo by me.

Laundry day. Photo by me.

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From the Coastal Path as the rain approaches. Photo by me.

Photo by me

The well-travelled coastal path. Photo by me

The Irish Sea is treacherous and notorious for very strong tides and large numbers of offshore rocks. And it brings in lots of rain.

All those consonant and very few vowels...Welsh. Photo by me

All those consonant and very few vowels…Welsh. Photo by me

Photo by me

A hidden beach with cliffs of distinctive red sandstone. Photo by me

Carved in the stone on the side of the path.  Photo by me

Carved in the stone on the side of the path. There were symbols etched all over the area.  I have no idea by who. Photo by me

The whole area has a rather “new-age” vibe, with surfers, druids and artists all in the mix. There are a number of interesting archaeological sites along the coast such as burial chambers, Stone Age hut circles and Iron Age field systems.  It is also said this was the site where St. Patrick stood when he had the vision to travel to Ireland to convert the Irish to Christianity.

Photo by me

Looking out towards Ireland. Photo by me

Photo by me

Many dairy and sheep farms lined the coast. Photo by me

Photo by me

Photo by me

This walk along this lonely cliff was one of the highlights of my summer.  I felt like I was on the ends of the earth.

Wales is a different country

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Great Britain consists of four separate yet united countries: England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales.  This week, for the first time, I crossed a fog-shrouded bridge into Wales.  It is lovely and does seem somewhat “foreign”. Everything is written in English, and also in Welsh.

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A strange “Totem” at the visitors center in Brecon Beacons. Photo by me

There are lots of “L”s and “W”s and “F”s in the Welsh language, unfamiliar and unpronounceable to the American tongue. We stopped in the town of Merthyr Tydfil for lunch, right after we had driven through LLwyn-0n.

Merthyr Tydefil Wales. Photo by me

Merthyr Tydefil Wales. Photo by me

It was a strange land, but the countryside was stark and beautiful. We started in the southern midlands, beautiful valleys and farmland, before we head for the western coast.

Wales in the Beacons.l Photo by me

Wales and the Beacons. Photo by me

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Driving through the valleys of the Breacons. Photo by me.

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A stop at the Visitors Center for the Breacons. Photo by me.

And the natives are very friendly.

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You have to love a country that has acres and acres of these friendly little residents walking around.

Kensington Palace Fashion Rules

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We spent a morning at Kensington Palace earlier this week. Another glorious early September day in London.

The Sunken Garden. Photo by me.

The Sunken Garden. Photo by me.

I wanted to visit the palace again and see the new Fashion Rules exhibition.

The public entrance to Kensington Palace. Photo by me.

The public entrance to Kensington Palace. Photo by me.

New this year, the exhibition of dresses from the collections of HM The Queen, Princess Margaret, and Diana, Princess of Wales has proved to be very popular.

The 1950s: HM The Queen. Photo by me.

The 1950s: HM The Queen. Photo by me.

The workmanship and style of the dresses was amazing.  It was fabulous to see the craftsmanship of the garments up close.

1960s and 70s Princess Margaret. Photo by me.

1960s and 70s Princess Margaret. Photo by me.

It really did recall a specific time vividly through fashion.

My Beloved brit reckoned the fur trim was supposed to add some warmth to the coat. Photo by me.

The card said the fur added some warmth to the coat. My Beloved Brit reckoned they were kidding. Photo by me.

A past era, revisited in cloth and color and style.

Elizabeth I. Photo by me.

Elizabeth I. Photo by me of the exhibition film.

The Diana, Princess of Wales display featured five gowns that looked so familiar from past newspaper photos.

Photo by me.

Photo by me.

For the Japan State visit, a dress the color of cherry blossoms. Photo by me.

For the Japan State Visit, a dress the color of cherry blossoms on the left. Photo by me.

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I remember when she wore this dress with the metallic stars–she was such a style icon. Photo by me.

Photo by me.

Photo by me.

Photo by me.

Photo by me of the exhibition film.

And outside the palace, the golden gates on the south side were decorated with notes, clippings and floral tributes in memory of the princess.  It was the anniversary of her death on August 31st, and there were reminders throughout London.

Photo by me.

Photo by me.

Kensington Palace had been her home where she raised her boys, so here more than anywhere there were thoughts of her life.

The gates outside the road to the palace. Photo by me

The gates outside the road to the palace. Photo by me

Even across the street from the palace road, a cafe helps keep her memory alive.

Cafe Diana across from the palace road. Photo by me.

Cafe Diana across from the palace road. Photo by me.

And then there is the future, celebrated at this same cafe Diana herself used to pop in to for a cold drink.

In celebration of baby George. Photo by me.

In celebration of baby George. Photo by me.

The line of a tradition carries on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to Bath

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I love Bath.  It is lovely anytime of year.  Last time I was here it was late autumn and the leaves were golden.  This year, it is end of summer and there are flower baskets everywhere.

Bath on an early September day. Photo by me.

Bath on an early September day. Photo by me.

It is a spectacular city. Classic and modern, Roman and English, country and city.  The best of contradictions all in one very walkable location.

The Roman section of town. Photo by me

The Roman section of town. Photo by me

The main shopping promenade. Photo by me

The main shopping promenade. Photo by me

Flower baskets are everywhere. Photo by me

Flower baskets are everywhere. Photo by me

The Bath Abbey. Photo by me

The Bath Abbey. Photo by me

Around every corner there is another great scene. Photo by me

Around every corner there is another great scene. Photo by me

The lovely park in the center of Bath. Photo by me.

The lovely park, Parade Gardens, in the center of Bath. Photo by me.

Classic Bath. Photo by me

Classic Bath. Photo by me

We’re off to Wales, and the weather is supposed to change from sunny and 70s to cool, autumnal weather and rain.  Sounds like England to me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

London Old & New

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Nowhere was it more obvious the contrast between old and new London as when we came out of the Tower Hill underground station and saw the new “Shard” rising up behind the Tower of London.

The "Shard" and The Tower of London. Photo by me

The “Shard” and The Tower of London. Photo by me

There is new construction all over the city.  What a challenge to blend modern construction with a historic city.

Art Day in London

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Between sailing races last week, I took a few detours in to London to visit art museums.  Last Friday, I decided to concentrate on the National Gallery of Art…

Photo by me

Photo by me

with a bright blue cock right out front…

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A new addition to Trafalgar Square in front of the National Gallery of Art. Photo by me

and The National Portrait Gallery.

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The entrance to the National Portrait Gallery. Photo by me

The two world-class museums are snuggled up next to each other off Trafalgar Square right in the center of London, and offer more art than any one person can take in a day. But I tried.

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Both galleries are located directly off Trafalgar Square. That’s Big Ben in the distance. Photo by me

I spent my first hour at the National Portrait Gallery.

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Harry and William in a relaxed portrait. Photo by me

It is a favorite of mine. Intimate in its size and varied in its content, it has new exhibits all the time and old favorites that I like to re-visit.

Photo by me

Photo by me

There was  a special exhibition of drawings by Bob Dylan, never having been shown before.  I thought of how he may have sketched all these years just for the joy of it never caring if anyone else saw them.  He was an idol of mine in my youth, and this scenario suited my image of him.

Photo by me

Bib Dylan’s sketches. Photo by me

I ended my visit in the upstairs galleries featuring historic paintings.  This one of Queen Elizabeth I was one of my favorites. And again, as always in London, the sense of history is so overwhelming.

Photo by me

Photo by me

The museum is rich and varied.  And although there were restrictions on what I could and could not photograph, the images linger in my mind.

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Ocean’s portraits of people who visited his studio. Photo by me

The National Gallery of Art, attached yet separate did not allow any photography at all inside.  But the collection was more familiar, so hardly necessary to recall the great art.  Seeing the Constables, Monets and Van Goghs was like visiting old friends.

Photo by me

Photo by me

All in all a very pleasant day.  As I slowly strolled across the city to return to Liverpool Street Station to catch my train back to rural England, I was felling very lucky indeed to be allowed access to all that London has to offer.

St.Paul's Cathedral on the walk back to the train.Photo by me

St.Paul’s Cathedral on the walk back to the train. Photo by me

 

 

Burnham Week 2013

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The end of Burnham Week, and the end of summer…August 31st is the last race of the week, and for My Beloved Brit, probably the year.

The sea wall at Burnham-on-Crouch. Photo by me.

The sea wall at Burnham-on-Crouch. Photo by me.

The town is quieter this week than in past years, but still lovely. Especially this summer, one of the warmest England has seen in years.

The view from our window yesterday at The White Harte. Photo by me

The view from our window yesterday at The White Harte. Photo by me

The shops are busy and there are not many empty storefronts. The lines for ice cream on the river front are long.

Burnham's High Street. Photo by me

Burnham’s High Street. Photo by me

But, there are fewer boats these days racing.

Day one of racing, Burnham Race Week 2013. Photo by me.

Day one of racing, Burnham Race Week 2013. Photo by me.

Many say it is the economy. Some say people can’t afford to take the time off.

The "RBs". The boat MBB was on is 80 years old, and pink. Lovely. Photo by me.

The “RBs”. The boat MBB was on is 80 years old, and pink. That’s it second from the right. Lovely. Photo by me.

Dock talk (the general banter on the sea wall about this and that) says that the young sailors are not coming along to replace the sailors retiring from the racing circuit.

The Crouch Yacht Club on the river. Photo by me

The Crouch Yacht Club on the river. Photo by me

The new sailors are here, but many less than in the past.

My Beloved Brit sails out through the fog on a small boat called an "RB". Photo by me

My Beloved Brit sails out through the fog on a small boat called an “RB”. I love that it is pink and the crew wears pink shirts under their jackets. Photo by me

When I first started visiting Burnham-on-Crouch for Burnham Week with my Beloved Brit over 16 years ago, the crowds were massive. Now it seems so much calmer with less crowds on the seawall, and fewer boats competing.

The seawall in front of our hotel, The White Harte. Photo by me

The seawall in front of our hotel, The White Harte. Photo by me

The streets are more peaceful, although bands of revellers still walk the sea wall at night going from yacht club to yacht club seeing who has the better band and the best sailing banter to relive the day.

A lone figure watches the start of the race. Photo by me.

A lone figure watches the start of the race. Photo by me.

It will be interesting to see what the future holds.

The "RBs" starting their race. Photo by me

The “RBs” and “Squibs” lining up to start to race. Photo by me

Will it come back to its former glory when the economy finally recovers?

And they're off! Photo by me.

And they’re off! Photo by me.

Or is the golden age of racing a thing to tell stories about at the local pub?

Chelsea and the Saachti

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I was in London yesterday, and my hotel (which had offered an unbeatable bargain for the night) was near Victoria Station, a neighborhood I was not familiar with. Early in the morning after a big breakfast I decided to head out and explore, and found myself in Chelsea.

Entering Chelsea. Photo by me

Entering Chelsea. Photo by me

It was lovely.  Lots of beautiful townhouses, shops and busy streets.  It was rush hour after all.  Even though I was on holiday, London was back to work after the 3 day break. But more on the neighborhood in a future post.

Busy Sloane Square. Photo by me

Busy Sloane Square. Photo by me

Wandering down past Sloane Square, I came across the Saatchi Gallery, which I had often heard of but had never had a chance to visit. I believe this is a new location for it.

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It was fantastic.  I found several exhibits in the many galleries that were exciting and original. In the very first gallery was Dawn Clements, and she filled the large room with her sumi ink on paper.

I believe this artist was my favorite...Dawn Clements. Photo by me

I believe this artist was my favorite…Dawn Clements. Photo by me

I loved the realism and flow of it.  Almost like a giant sketchbook gone wild!

A detail from "Movie". Photo by me

A detail from “Movie”. Photo by me

The huge sheets of paper filled the room in a seemingly haphazard manner, like lazy memories.

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Detail, "Travels with Myra Hudson". Photo by me

Detail, “Travels with Myra Hudson”. Photo by me

Only one piece was in color.  The color seemed to make it cozier.

"Untitled (Coloured Kitchen), Photo by me

“Untitled (Colour Kitchen), Photo by me

IMG_9330The galleries were a mixture of very varied work on/with paper on the main floor.  Some I liked better than others, but the personal nature of the work and the original use of paper made it cohesive and exciting.

Eric Manigaud, pencil and graphite on paper. Photo by me

Eric Manigaud, pencil and graphite on paper. Photo by me

Along the wall of one room were a series of different paper bags…from McDonald’s to Christian Dior.  When you went up to them and peered inside…

Yuken Teruya, all paper and glue. Photo by me

Yuken Teruya, all paper and glue. Photo by me

you saw these lovely little trees

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Each was a different color palette depending on the bag it came from.  Recycle indeed.  It was like delicate origami.

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At the far end of the room was another beautiful use of paper recycled into “nature” art.

Thom Thayer's "Nature Scene" Photo by me

Thom Thayer’s “Nature Scene” Photo by me

It was very large and juxtaposed next to the delicate bags even more impressive.  The artist was intrigued by birds, and his use of materials was delicate but strong.

paint, ink, pigments, graphite and sewing on felt and monk's cloth. Photo by me

paint, ink, pigments, graphite and sewing on felt and monk’s cloth. Photo by me

Another gallery featured very strong portraiture, full face or full-bodied. Margot Sander’s acrylic on paper was by far my favorite.

Margot Sanders "In fine company" Photo by me

Margot Sanders “In fine company” Photo by me

Storm Tharp’s ink gouache and colored pencil on paper was interesting, but a bit too depressing for me.

"Love Nothing More" Photo by me

“Window” and “Jodie Jill” Photo by me

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“Love Nothing More” Storm Tharp. Photo by me

His series of 21 works on paper, above, reinforced that feeling. It also felt familiar, like I had seen it before.  Not sure if that was because I had seen something similar or because of the nature of the work.

I escaped to the next floor and found a room that was interactive video.  The first screen had falling snowflakes in gray on white.  When my shadow hit the screen, the snowflakes bounced off of “me”.

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There was also a work that reacted when you stood in front of it.  I have seen this type of thing before.  But it’s still intriguing to see how you can affect a space. Rather like a play space…

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All in all, an intriguing day.  Some of the aspects of the museum are very commercial and designed to get the public directly engaged with the works. There was something about “voting” for your favorite work. Ugh. I didn’t take the time to read the details.

Mark Jenkins, USA, "Cornered", sculpture. Photo by me

Mark Jenkins, USA, “Cornered”, sculpture. Photo by me

But it was still refreshing, and especially the “Paper” show was one of the best I have seen in a while. Always love a visit to London.  There is never-ending art.

Riding the "lift" up to the "first floor". Photo by me

Riding the “lift” up to the “first floor”. Photo by me