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Category Archives: Bath

Longboats on the Avon River

29 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, Uncategorized

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Avon River, boats, longboats

When I took the train from London to Bath, I noticed canals with longboats, also called narrowboats, all along the way. They were all different sizes, and had various forms of decor and frills, but are meant to head down the narrow rivers and canals all through England. I loved spotting them from the train window.  Finally, in Bath, I was able to get a closer look as they sat along the stone walls on the Avon River.

Longboats resting in Bath. Photo by me.

It was midweek in November, so very few were out working, but they were ready for a mild weekend when guests would take a leisurely trip down the river through the Limpley Stoke Valley and to Bathampton.

Ready for the weekend. Photo by me

One of my favorites was this funny green boat because of its name– the “Uncle Albert”.  Anyone who has ever been a fan of the classic British sitcom Only Fools and Horses gets the reference. He was the beloved old character who had spent his life on the sea.

Uncle Albert. Photo by me

And if you have nothing better to do with your afternoon, you can always use your boat to remove nature’s debris from the river while the tourists watch.

Trying to remove a long branch from the Avon. Photo by me

Life on the river.  The British are never far removed from their boats and the sea.

 

The Shops of Bath

26 Monday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, Fashion, Shopping, Travel, Uncategorized

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Jigsaw, Marks & Spencer

One of the reasons My Beloved Brit’s cousins wanted to join me in Bath earlier this month was to attempt some early Christmas shopping.  I must say,  the shops in Bath are varied and wonderful.  There are the larger brand names from America like Gap and Banana Republic.

The main shopping street, Milsom. Notice all the bicycles. Cars are not encouraged in Bath. Photo by me

And an array of the better known English chains like Marks & Spencer, Jigsaw and L.K. Bennett.

Jigsaw, in The Old Post Office building. Photo by me

But my favorites were the smaller shops…

An art supply shop almost hidden by an ancient wall. Photo by me

Prince Charles’ estate shop which had all sorts of gardening treasures. Photo by me.

…tucked along the main street and side alleys.

Sausages for Sale in Bath. Heaven on earth for My Beloved Brit. Photo by me

It was nice to see the unique and the imaginative…

Hidden on a narrow cobbled street. Photo by me

…along the cobblestone side streets. There were many, many fine art galleries, some very good.

A favorite small gallery in Bath. Photo by me

A weaving shop. When I passed it later on, there was actually someone working in this room! Photo by me

I must admit, I didn’t buy a thing, although it was tempting.

A side street filled with small shops and tea rooms. Photo by me.

The pound to the dollar made it prohibitive, but it was still a joy to look.

The Salcombe Trading Company. Photo by me

And at the end of my stay they were rapidly putting up the little wooden huts for the upcoming Christmas Market from November 22nd to December 9th.

From the Bath website.

The Christmas Market is set up right between the Roman Baths, and The Abbey. From the Bath Christmas Market website.

‘Tis the season…to shop.

The Botanical Gardens of Bath

22 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, England, Gardens, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Bath Botanical Gardens, Queen's Square, Royal Crescent, Royal Victoria Park

I thought you all deserved a leisurely stroll through a gorgeous autumnal setting in honor of that very American celebration, Thanksgiving. So take a break from cooking that turkey, grab a cup of tea, and come along.

Tucked off to the western edge of Bath, past The Royal Crescent , are the Botanical Gardens of Bath. And what better time to visit as the season changes from autumn to winter.

The Botanical Gardens of Bath. Photo by me

Getting there is half the joy. I headed off around Queen’s Square, through the gates to Royal Victoria Park, you came to the very edge of the historic downtown…

Queen's Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Queen’s Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Cutting across the park just south of the Royal Crescent. Photo by me

…and the beginning of a gorgeous expanse of greens and groves of trees.

The Botanical Gardens are in the distance, through groves of trees. Photo by me

I walked through what seemed liked pristine English countryside, and finally got to the entrance of the gardens.

Photo by me

Photo by me

Photo by me

The Botanical Gardens, set inside Royal Victoria Park, were designed in 1887 and within their 9 acres of rambling walks is an incredible collection of plants on limestone.

Across from the entrance to the gardens is “The Great Dell”. Photo by me

In classic English style the winding paths revealed quiet coves and gentle gardens each with their seemingly random nature, but actually beautifully planned.

Photo by me

It was well worth the walk.

Winter is finally approaching Bath. Photo by me

A last burst signaling the end of autumn. Photo by me

A place to rest before the walk back to city centre. Photo by me

The path back to town. Photo by me

Back to Bath Center, and lunch before my train leaves for London.

 

 

Food, glorious food

15 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, England, Food, Travel, United Kingdom

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restaurants, Sally Lunn's

I am bound to have put on a few pounds this week taste testing my way through Bath.  It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it.

Part of my research is to find suitable restaurants for a couple of group dinners for the planned workshop, and there are so many good dining venues in Bath that My Beloved Brit’s cousins from Andover are joining me for a night to help me out. We taste-tested Hall and Woodhouse, the new hot restaurant in Bath, and it was great.

Hall and Woodhouse–a brewery re-born as a modern restaurant. Photo by me

A tiny chicken and chips. Photo by me

I tried Jamie’s Italian for my first lunch in Bath and it was quite the experience.  It is celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s chain, so I was thinking it might be run of the mill, but the building was a funky take in a historic old Georgian building, with lots of fun decor and a rustic feel to match the food.

Wild mushrooms in pasta pillows with a rocket and parmesan salad. Photo by me

The food was quite good and a very different menu. Across the courtyard they also had a small deli and gift shop.

The bar area at Jamie’s Italian. Photo by me

Jamie’s Italian floats above Bath in this renovation of old Georgian space. Photo of me

I also tried a wood burning oven pizza restaurant for dinner.  (Italian is big is this town–I guess it is the Roman influence). The atmosphere was great, the pizza ok.  But when I saw “California Grill” on the window, I thought this is not what Americans would travel overseas for.

Firehouse. Photo by me

And of course while I was in Bath, I had to try the Sally Lunn’s, home of the original Bath Bun, in one of the oldest homes in Bath.

Sally Lunn’s. Photo by me

I wasn’t expecting much, and yes, it was flooded with international tourists.  But I had the salmon and dill “bun” and a fabulous pot of green tea, and on a chilly rainy day it was just perfect to be packed in with other bun lovers.

Salmon and Dill on Sally’s bun. Photo by me

And just for My Beloved Brit back home safe from the cold rain, I saw this sausage stand out on the street the other day…and thought, I have to take a photo.

There’s nothing like an English sausage. Photo by me

The best meal of the week goes to the day trip I made with MBB’s cousins to Castle Combe and the Castle Inn. Even though it was grey all day, it was the absolute perfect English outing.  I promise a more detailed post later on about Castle Combe and the Castle Inn.

Castle Combe. Is this the perfect English Village, or what? Photo by me

The Castle Inn, where we had lunch. It was perfect. Photo by me

And for my last meal, I was back in Bath for lunch before I left for London to fly from Heathrow in the morning.

One of the hidden courtyards in Bath where you can find all kinds of secret treasures. Photo by me

This is one of the last independently locally owned restaurants left in Bath, and it was packed. Good for them. Photo by me.

Chicken and parma ham to sustain me for the train ride back to London/Heathrow. Photo by me

Back home tonight! Back to sensible eating.

 

Bathed in Light

14 Wednesday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, England, Shopping

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Christmas Lights

Last night was the lighting of the holiday lights in Bath.  Everyone was out, walking and gazing.  There are no cars on these streets…just people and shops and now lights!

Let the holidays begin! All photos by me.

Bath, even in the rain, is beautiful.

13 Tuesday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Art, Art Museums & Exhibitions, Bath, History, Travel, Uncategorized, United Kingdom

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Holburne Museum, Pulteney Bridge

I was out walking in the rain yesterday, and managed to have a wonderful time, even with the inclement weather.  My Beloved Brit’s favorite old saying goes something like “…if you didn’t do anything in England because it was raining, you’d never do anything”.

The Pulteney Bridge is the only historic bridge, apart from the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, to have shops built in to it, according to the guidebook in my room. Photo by me.

I am busy researching this location for a possible destination workshop for artists next fall, and I must say, this area is so rich in character, museums and spectacular visuals that it seems perfect.

By the side of the River Avon. Photo by me

The weather just adds the atmosphere. The Holburne Museum was my first stop.  Most of the paintings are very traditional 17th and 18th century portraits (there are many beautiful Gainsborough’s) and the mansion is intimate but regal.

The Holburne Museum. Photo by me

One room features a surprisingly fanciful sculptural installation by Bouke de Vries with a base of pottery shards.  It was so very interesting and I was delighted that they would include such an imaginative, modern piece in this classic museum.

Bouke De Vries, War & Pieces, ceramic, At the Holburne, Photo by me.

 

A detail. Photo by me

I am back out researching for the next few days.  I’ll keep you posted.

…and Bath is Bronze

12 Monday Nov 2012

Posted by pat in Bath, Gardens, Travel, United Kingdom

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The Circus, The Crescent

If London was golden this week, my first impression of Bath when I arrived by train yesterday afternoon was the honey bronze richness of the city under a clear blue English sky and lots of sun.  Yes, even in England they sometimes see the sun.

A glorious afternoon in Bath looking down the Avon River. Photo by me

It has something to do with the color of the gorgeous stone buildings that makes Bath so memorable. The architecture in this small city is Palladian spectacular. You can just imagine Jane Austen sitting in one of the small parks plotting her novels.

The Circus, designed by John Wood the Elder, Bath. Photo by me

The low autumn sun helped to define the classic facades.

The Royal Crescent was built between 1767 and 1775 and contains some 30 houses. Photo by me.

I hated to lose the sun today. Never know when I might see it again over here.  Today’s forecast is for clouds and some scattered showers, and it’s rainy outside now. Time to get the brollie back out.

A walk through the park, Bath. Photo by me

Ah, well.  I always say it is all the rain that makes the gardens and parks so magnificent in Great Britain.  Nowhere better.

Voyeur: Bath and the birth of a new idea

22 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by pat in Art, Bath, paintings, Uncategorized

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Bath, England, painting, travel

We had been touring England for a few weeks by car, and I was looking for new art inspiration without much luck.  Sometimes it just goes like that. I had worked on my wave series. I had explored branches. I was hoping something new would hit me on this trip.

We had just come from a disappointing excursion to the east coast of England. It was an area neither of us were too familiar with, and although the purple heather hills of the Yorkshire Dales were spectacular, I still hadn’t found the venue that would give my artistic inspiration a jolt.

And then we went to Bath.

We found a hotel very near the old Roman Baths in the center of town… The Pratt’s Hotel.  The rooms were clean, the staff was friendly, but it is a quirky old hotel that did, in a way, live up to its name (“you prat” in Brit speak means a foolish person, sort of a meathead).  It was an odd hotel, but it was right in town and we could walk everywhere.  We had been driving for weeks, and it was time to do some exploring on foot

My Beloved Brit was tired of touring and wanted a nap and some down time hanging out in our room.  I wanted to get out in to the city, and of course the place to start an adventure in Bath is the 2000 year old Roman Baths.

This was fascinating.  The site was not even discovered until the late 19th century, and now you can wander through many different rooms and courtyards that weave under the modern street level.  It is so enlightening to walk in the ancient romans’ shoes, and the exhibits and artifacts are captivating.

Leaving this major attraction, I wandered around town, and then, finally, back to the hotel room to talk MBB into joining me. I had found the Museum of Bath at Work, which I thought might interest him. It’s a guys’ museum focusing on the industrialization of this area of England, housed in an old 18th century building that at one point was a “fizzy pop” company.  It had lots of machines and gadgets and featured the history of industrial Bath, which he loved.  I was also engaged by the exhibits. Of course we just happened to pass The Circus, an architectural marvel, and the classic areas of Bath that are soooo Jane Austen, Bath’s most famous resident.

We had a lovely evening wandering around town, had a great meal, and then went to bed early. The hotel was comfortable and quiet, and in the morning we had a big English breakfast in the dining room in the midst of a tour group of Germans.

We spent the morning wandering along the different streets together.  Bath is just the perfect size for exploring on foot.  You feel like you are in a city but it is not overwhelming. The buildings are lovely, the town is beautifully laid out, and around every corner there is another shop or restaurant to explore.  Bath is a World Heritage City nestled in the hills of Somerset county.

We found a Marks & Spencer right around the corner from Pratt’s.  How lucky. M&S is a department store, plus they have a fabulous food section with all kinds of pre-made sandwiches and an array of every sort of packaged gourmet treat you can imagine.  It’s like Dean & Deluca gone British.

We loaded up our basket, went back to our cozy room, and had a banquet sitting on the bed with our feast spread out before us. There was everything from egg mayonnaise (egg salad) sandwiches, sausage rolls, chicken tikka and sweet puddings. How perfect.

MBB was ready for his nap but I decided I wanted to go out for a walk to work off our major pig out.  It was still bothering me that I had not found the art inspiration that I was always looking for.

I wandered in to town along the main street.

There is a park along the river called Parade Gardens that is a level down from the main road. If you are a local, you simply show your ID and you are admitted free. If you are not a Bath resident you pay a small fee in summer. How sensible.  I paid my token fee and wandered down the steps and in to the gardens.

When I came back up to the street level and looked down, I paused to watch people wander along the paths and across the grass below.

I walked along.  On each side of me were two different worlds.  The bustling city of one of Bath’s busiest streets on the one side, and the cool green of the Parade Garden below me on the opposite side, sweeping down to the River Avon.

As I strolled along the edge of the wall, I looked down towards the river through the branches of a tree that had lost nearly all its leaves.  It was fabulous.  The people below weren’t aware of me at all as I watched them come and go beneath the screen of branches.  I was mesmerized. This was it. I had stumbled on a new tableau for my art.

I realized I had left my camera back in the room.  I literally ran (or tried to) the length of the park and then the additional few blocks to my room.  The light might fade! The people in the park might all go home! I crashed up the stairs (couldn’t wait for the very slow lift) and in to the room. MBB was watching a movie and working on his computer.  I was out of breath.  “Camera! Got to go back out!” He smiled and wished me well.

When I got back to the park it was all still there. Perfect. I watched and shot for about an hour. And I got it.

I had been working on painting branches for several years.  This was new.  There were people tangled in the scene.  It was a story. I chose this photo to work from but I knew it needed editing so the figures talked to each other, and to the Voyeur (is the voyeur the person in the lawn chair, or the viewer of the painting?).

I started by blocking in the main figures and the tree. The two women walking and talking were oblivious to me and to the person relaxing under the trees.  The whole city of Bath was above their heads.  The river was beyond the trees in the background. The two women were alone just listening to each other in their private conversation.

The next big decision was how complex to make the tree without losing the figures. I loved the spider web like branches, but didn’t want to lose my stars.

A bigger problem.  I was fairly far along with my blocking, and I realized it was too blue and moody…almost menacing.  Not what I wanted at all.  This was an intimate, golden world. I went back in and warmed up all the branches.  Each branch.  Then I went in and repainted the green between the branches with more yellow tones to eliminate the blue.  Sometimes these decisions are critical at an early stage.

The painting finally had the mood I wanted.  Now it was weeks of working on detail without losing the figures that were the center of the conversation.

Voyeur, oil painting, collection of the artist

This was the birth of what I called The Encounter series, where an individual’s surroundings affected them in a unique way, and the viewer of the painting creates their own story based on their experiences and point of view.

You can see a similar extension of this concept in a later painting called Winter’s Tale, which features My Beloved Brit in a snowy scene that took place on the other side of the world from Bath, in Yosemite, on the West Coast in California.

Winter's Tale, oil painting, artist's collection

Small world. A series was born. To see more, visit my website www.patwhitehead.com

 

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