The Botanical Gardens of Bath

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I thought you all deserved a leisurely stroll through a gorgeous autumnal setting in honor of that very American celebration, Thanksgiving. So take a break from cooking that turkey, grab a cup of tea, and come along.

Tucked off to the western edge of Bath, past The Royal Crescent , are the Botanical Gardens of Bath. And what better time to visit as the season changes from autumn to winter.

The Botanical Gardens of Bath. Photo by me

Getting there is half the joy. I headed off around Queen’s Square, through the gates to Royal Victoria Park, you came to the very edge of the historic downtown…

Queen's Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Queen’s Square, the last bit of city before the park begins. Photo by me

Cutting across the park just south of the Royal Crescent. Photo by me

…and the beginning of a gorgeous expanse of greens and groves of trees.

The Botanical Gardens are in the distance, through groves of trees. Photo by me

I walked through what seemed liked pristine English countryside, and finally got to the entrance of the gardens.

Photo by me

Photo by me

Photo by me

The Botanical Gardens, set inside Royal Victoria Park, were designed in 1887 and within their 9 acres of rambling walks is an incredible collection of plants on limestone.

Across from the entrance to the gardens is “The Great Dell”. Photo by me

In classic English style the winding paths revealed quiet coves and gentle gardens each with their seemingly random nature, but actually beautifully planned.

Photo by me

It was well worth the walk.

Winter is finally approaching Bath. Photo by me

A last burst signaling the end of autumn. Photo by me

A place to rest before the walk back to city centre. Photo by me

The path back to town. Photo by me

Back to Bath Center, and lunch before my train leaves for London.

 

 

Castle Combe

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On the edge of the Cotswolds, near Chippenham, is a place that is described as “The Prettiest Village in England”. They aren’t far wrong.

Walking down the hill from the parking lot to Castle Combe. Photo by me

We visited Castle Combe after a scenic half hour drive from Bath through rolling countryside with the idea of finding the perfect lunch spot.  We were exploring possibilities for a day trip during next year’s workshop. When we arrived we found we had to park at the top of a hill outside the village, for a long but beautiful walk in to town.

A thatched cottage that dates from the 18th century on the walk to Castle Combe. Photo by me

On one side of the hill were quaint cottages lining the road, on the other a wooded area with an active footpath where several people were taking their dogs out for a wild stroll in the mud.

A wisteria covered cottage. Photo by me

As we turned the last curve in to town, Castle Combe revealed itself in all its classic English honey-stone wonder.

The yellow stone so typical of the Cotswolds was evident all through the town. This is the view from the bottom of the high street looking back up. Photo by me

Everything was there. The church with old churchyard–The Parish Church of St. Andrew. The earliest reference to the church can be found in 1291.

The churchyard. Photo by me

The center of the village…St. Andrew’s in Castle Combe. Photo by me

It was also obviously the town center, with all sorts of notices for political actions, events and community dinners posted on its roadside notice board outside the gates. And there was the old post box next to it.  Notice the “GR” for George, rather than the “ER” on most modern postboxes for Elizabeth.  This is an old one.

An old post box outside the church gate. Photo by me

A large monument was in the center, where I’m sure they used to market the sheep. It is believed to date from the 14th century, “when the privilege to hold a weekly market was first granted.” The curved stone structure below it sometimes referred to as the “buttercross” was used for mounting and tethering horses.

The center of the village by me

This village is often used for filming. It is so traditionally old English. It was the center for the movie Warhorse which was filmed in the town. All the tea shops and country inns had photos marking the cinematic events.  Dr. Doolittle, Stardust and other films also filmed scenes here.

This could be anytime in the last few hundred years.  It is unchanged. Photo by me

Part of the reason the village is so timeless and lovely is that there are very few cars parked in town, no satellite dishes, no light poles and no overhead wires or antennas.

Every place you looked, there was no sign of modern time invading England’s rural splendor. Photo by me.

It looks very much as it might have many decades ago.

Tea shops, and houses along the high street. Photo by me

The requisite babbling brook meanders under town and spills out at the end of the high street and into the wooded fields. I’m sure many a sheep was washed in its waters. There are exquisite birds everywhere, and hidden gems behind each hedge.

Tucked behind a hedge, a lovely home. Photo by me.

But the highlight was The Castle Inn Hotel & Pub, smack dab in the middle of town with the door open and a lovely fire going inside.  It was so inviting after a bit of a chilly walk through town.

The Castle Inn with its cozy pub. Photo by me

We were greeted at the bar by one of the friendliest barmaids I have ever met in England and put our order in for hot tea, and a pint for the man in our party.

Photo by me

Then we sat down to peruse a menu that featured the classic pub food of a ploughman’s (a cold plate of meat, cheese, salad and pickles) and of course ham, chips and egg.

But it also had my choice of pasta with crushed tomatoes and grilled artichokes, and My Beloved Brit’s cousin’s choice of chicken risotto with tarragon.  I never took a photo of the food because my brain went dead when the food arrived and the smell wafted up in sweet steamy curls of delicious flavor and stunned my brain. It was the best meal I had all week.

The view from the pub window. Photo by me

Other people started coming in, heeding the sign to wipe their muddy boots at the door before heading towards the bar.  Soon the little pub was bubbling with talk and conversation about the villages comings and goings.

The bar on the left is the center of the long room. Photo by me

After a long, happy lunch, we then headed outside and up the long hill, perfectly satisfied with our day.

As we left the Inn, the fog was rolling in through the hills, and smoke was beginning to curl from some of the chimneys. Photo by me.

The walk back up to our car was quite pleasant after a full lunch and the days adventure. Castle Combe fully lived up to all our expectations.

A charming sign to warn drivers charging down the hill. Photo by me

 

Food, glorious food

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I am bound to have put on a few pounds this week taste testing my way through Bath.  It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it.

Part of my research is to find suitable restaurants for a couple of group dinners for the planned workshop, and there are so many good dining venues in Bath that My Beloved Brit’s cousins from Andover are joining me for a night to help me out. We taste-tested Hall and Woodhouse, the new hot restaurant in Bath, and it was great.

Hall and Woodhouse–a brewery re-born as a modern restaurant. Photo by me

A tiny chicken and chips. Photo by me

I tried Jamie’s Italian for my first lunch in Bath and it was quite the experience.  It is celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s chain, so I was thinking it might be run of the mill, but the building was a funky take in a historic old Georgian building, with lots of fun decor and a rustic feel to match the food.

Wild mushrooms in pasta pillows with a rocket and parmesan salad. Photo by me

The food was quite good and a very different menu. Across the courtyard they also had a small deli and gift shop.

The bar area at Jamie’s Italian. Photo by me

Jamie’s Italian floats above Bath in this renovation of old Georgian space. Photo of me

I also tried a wood burning oven pizza restaurant for dinner.  (Italian is big is this town–I guess it is the Roman influence). The atmosphere was great, the pizza ok.  But when I saw “California Grill” on the window, I thought this is not what Americans would travel overseas for.

Firehouse. Photo by me

And of course while I was in Bath, I had to try the Sally Lunn’s, home of the original Bath Bun, in one of the oldest homes in Bath.

Sally Lunn’s. Photo by me

I wasn’t expecting much, and yes, it was flooded with international tourists.  But I had the salmon and dill “bun” and a fabulous pot of green tea, and on a chilly rainy day it was just perfect to be packed in with other bun lovers.

Salmon and Dill on Sally’s bun. Photo by me

And just for My Beloved Brit back home safe from the cold rain, I saw this sausage stand out on the street the other day…and thought, I have to take a photo.

There’s nothing like an English sausage. Photo by me

The best meal of the week goes to the day trip I made with MBB’s cousins to Castle Combe and the Castle Inn. Even though it was grey all day, it was the absolute perfect English outing.  I promise a more detailed post later on about Castle Combe and the Castle Inn.

Castle Combe. Is this the perfect English Village, or what? Photo by me

The Castle Inn, where we had lunch. It was perfect. Photo by me

And for my last meal, I was back in Bath for lunch before I left for London to fly from Heathrow in the morning.

One of the hidden courtyards in Bath where you can find all kinds of secret treasures. Photo by me

This is one of the last independently locally owned restaurants left in Bath, and it was packed. Good for them. Photo by me.

Chicken and parma ham to sustain me for the train ride back to London/Heathrow. Photo by me

Back home tonight! Back to sensible eating.

 

Bathed in Light

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Last night was the lighting of the holiday lights in Bath.  Everyone was out, walking and gazing.  There are no cars on these streets…just people and shops and now lights!

Let the holidays begin! All photos by me.

Bath, even in the rain, is beautiful.

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I was out walking in the rain yesterday, and managed to have a wonderful time, even with the inclement weather.  My Beloved Brit’s favorite old saying goes something like “…if you didn’t do anything in England because it was raining, you’d never do anything”.

The Pulteney Bridge is the only historic bridge, apart from the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, to have shops built in to it, according to the guidebook in my room. Photo by me.

I am busy researching this location for a possible destination workshop for artists next fall, and I must say, this area is so rich in character, museums and spectacular visuals that it seems perfect.

By the side of the River Avon. Photo by me

The weather just adds the atmosphere. The Holburne Museum was my first stop.  Most of the paintings are very traditional 17th and 18th century portraits (there are many beautiful Gainsborough’s) and the mansion is intimate but regal.

The Holburne Museum. Photo by me

One room features a surprisingly fanciful sculptural installation by Bouke de Vries with a base of pottery shards.  It was so very interesting and I was delighted that they would include such an imaginative, modern piece in this classic museum.

Bouke De Vries, War & Pieces, ceramic, At the Holburne, Photo by me.

 

A detail. Photo by me

I am back out researching for the next few days.  I’ll keep you posted.

…and Bath is Bronze

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If London was golden this week, my first impression of Bath when I arrived by train yesterday afternoon was the honey bronze richness of the city under a clear blue English sky and lots of sun.  Yes, even in England they sometimes see the sun.

A glorious afternoon in Bath looking down the Avon River. Photo by me

It has something to do with the color of the gorgeous stone buildings that makes Bath so memorable. The architecture in this small city is Palladian spectacular. You can just imagine Jane Austen sitting in one of the small parks plotting her novels.

The Circus, designed by John Wood the Elder, Bath. Photo by me

The low autumn sun helped to define the classic facades.

The Royal Crescent was built between 1767 and 1775 and contains some 30 houses. Photo by me.

I hated to lose the sun today. Never know when I might see it again over here.  Today’s forecast is for clouds and some scattered showers, and it’s rainy outside now. Time to get the brollie back out.

A walk through the park, Bath. Photo by me

Ah, well.  I always say it is all the rain that makes the gardens and parks so magnificent in Great Britain.  Nowhere better.

Poppy Day

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Remembrance Day in Great Britain is also known as “Poppy Day”.  All over the UK around November 11th you see people wearing poppies to recall the end of World War I on that date in 1918.  Hostilities formally ended “at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month,” in accordance with the armistice.

Poppies for Armistice Day. Photo by me

Today poppies are worn by many British citizens in memory of members of the armed forces who have died in the line of duty — the UK version of America’s Veterans’ Day.

For a small donation, poppies are available all over London this weekend (here at the Victoria & Albert Museum), and everyone is wearing them. Photo by me.

The red remembrance poppy is a widely displayed emblem of Remembrance Day in honor of the poem “in Flanders Field.” These poppies bloomed across some of the worst Battlefields on Flanders, their blood-red color an appropriate symbol of the blood spilled.

My poppy. Photo by me

In Flanders Fields  (John McCrae)

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

Harrods and The Portobello Market

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I visited two famous retail locations in London today, and it was a study in contrasts.

First was Harrods, all decked out for the Christmas season.

Harrods on a busy Saturday — the Christmas season has begun in London. Photo by me.

The windows were lovely  — the theme was Disney Princesses.  Here are just a few.

Snow White is quite the stunner. Photo by me

The small female viewers were especially over the moon with the display, and I didn’t mind it either.  It did remind me of going to see the fabulous windows at Lord & Taylor on Fifth Avenue every Christmas in New York with my sister.

Harrods window displays were full of Disney color. Photo by me

Cinderella post pumpkin. Photo by me

Pocahontas. Photo by me

Aladdin’s flying princess. Photo by me

My personal favorite window, Sleeping Beauty. Look at the small fairy in the lower right side. Photo by me

And then there is inside Harrods.  The food court is still the major attraction, but there is lots to see throughout the store.

Sweets and chocolates, just past the caviar bar at Harrods’ Food Court. Photo by me

And this photo is especially for My Beloved Brit, who still misses the butchers of his youth and good British meat.

The butchers are busy at Harrods. Photo by me

And then in the afternoon there was the Portobello Market in Notting Hill.  If you’ve ever seen the Hugh Grant movie, you’re familiar with the London neighborhood, but I wasn’t expecting quite the massive crowds I saw.

The Portobello Road market website’s directions say to go to Notting Hill Gate Underground stop, and follow the crowds. they weren’t exaggerating. Photo by me

The crowds were massive, even though the weather was dreary. It’s England. Weather doesn’t matter. Photo by me

Lots of colorful stalls. Photo by me

Some of the shop windows were pretty interesting, also. Photo by me

A beautiful stall of not inexpensive leather items. Photo by me

A bit of fruit? It went on for blocks. Photo by me

The whole day was rather like falling down a rabbit hole–curiouser and curiouser. I love London.  Every day is an adventure.

Alice’s has lots of teacups for sale, just in case you have a mad hatter at home. Photo by me.

Perhaps I should have picked up some tea at Harrods for a tea party.

Enough tea for a party. Photo by me

 

 

 

 

Golden London

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I have never been to the UK, let alone London, this late in the season.  It may have something to do with My Beloved Brit’s fear of having to actually experience Britain’s cold, damp weather again.

But this November visit I have found to be golden in London’s Kensington area on the edge of Notting Hill.

The last hurrah… golden tree in Kensington Gardens. photo by me

Everyone was out to enjoy the last blast of color even if the skies were grey.

All the bike rental stalls at the entrance to Hyde Park were empty. Photo by me

The arbor at Kensington Palace’s sunken garden has definitely changed since I last saw it in June.

A detail from the arbor at Kensington Palace in November. Photo by me

The air was quite chilly as I sat on a bench under the ash arbor at one of London’s most famous sites. I asked My Beloved Brit when he called me on my mobile, “Why does 50 degrees in England feel so much chillier than 50 degrees in the southern United States?”  He suggested it might have something to do with the damp, windy, grey skies that usually accompany the temperatures. The Grey Country?

The statue of Queen Victoria looks out over Hyde Park and grey skies on the east side of Kensington Palace. Photo by me

The gates at Kensington Palace, laced with gold inside and beyond. Photo by me.

I was quite comfortable walking along Kensington’s roads with my hat, gloves and scarf firmly in place.  It was golden.

Outside the palace gates in the very center of London. Photo by me

A front garden wall on a Kensington side street. Photo by me

Goodbye Autumn.

The final hours near Notting Hill. Photo by me

 

 

Election Spending: UK vs. US

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I found this interesting table of election spending for the last two general elections in the UK on the UK Political Info site. It shows that in the 2010 general election all parties spent under 30,000,000 pounds.

Consider that the United States’ elections this year will be the most expensive ever, with parties spending over $6 billion, according to Reuters.

Granted we are a much larger country, but it still gives you pause.

None the less, tomorrow is U.S. election day…please, get out and Vote.