A special spot, Heybridge Basin, Essex

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On our last day in England this past spring before we headed for Heathrow Airport, we met My Beloved Brit’s friends at, what else, a classic British Pub.  Some of his oldest friends had gathered from Australia and England, and of course America, and met around a table for fish’n’chips, a pint and talk and laughter.  It reminded him, I think, that as much as he loved America, he missed his old mates.

A special pub for a reunion lunch. Photo by me

We had arrived in the village of Heybridge Basin a bit early and decided to take a walk around.  From the moment we strolled up the bank from the parking area, I knew we were someplace special.

There are many boats moored on the small canal that empties in to the basin. Construction of the canal commenced in 1793 to facilitate unloading inside the sea locks. Photo by me.

We walked down to the River Blackwater.  There was lots to see.

The boats on Blackwater. Photo by me

We headed out along the seawall as clouds gathered.

We walked out along the seawall. You can see the lock on the left hand side which opens onto the canal. Photo by me.

Sailing barges going up the Blackwater Estuary as they have for centuries, where the Blackwater and Chelmer Rivers come together at the basin. MBB tells me the topsail was used to maneuver the boats at low tides to catch the wind above the river banks. Photo by me

It was just perfect to watch the boats coming and going as we walked up the seawall.

The clouds build as we work our way down the seawall. Photo by me.

We hurriedly worked back along the river to meet up for lunch at the pub before the rain clouds came overhead.

Time to head inside for a nice lunch. Photo by me.

Nothing like lunch in a nice cozy pub when the rain clouds gather.

I am back in the UK next week to research locations for a destination’s workshop I want to offer in the autumn of 2013. It is tentatively titled “A Creative Journey: How to find Inspiration in Travel”.  I am looking at Bath, one of my favorite cities and a huge art center in the UK, for the venue.  Will keep you posted as it evolves.

 

A Royal Garage at Sandringham

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When we travel through England, I find My Beloved Brit approaches a house tour with much more enthusiasm if there is a display of cars involved.  One of the best I found was Sandringham, the Royal Family’s Norfolk estate.  The old stables have been converted to a museum, and cars were a major feature of the displays.

The road from the main house to the museum at Sandringham was a lovely walk, even in the rain. Photo by me.

We walked across the park and arrived at the gates to the courtyard…

The entrance to the museum at Sandringham. Photo by me

…of what was formerly the stable block and coach house for the estate.  Inside was the museum with lots of photos and story boards showing the history of Sandringham, and whole rooms full of memorabilia and gifts given to the Royal Family through the years.

An arrangement showing bits from the stables earlier days. Photo by me

Every time we went in to another room, there was something interesting to see.  But when we turned the corner into the beginning of the car exhibitions, MBBs eyes lit up.

MBB thought it was a bit embarrassing to see something in a museum that he remembered from his childhood, but he was still delighted to see it. Photo by me

The first thing he saw was a tiny car, which was very similar to one he had as a boy.

Photo by me

There were several of them in the room, and people were thrilled to see them.

Further on, the cars got grander.

photo by me

I loved that you could look in to the interiors, and just imagine what it was like for the Queen.

Photo by me.

There was a variety of cars used for the Royal Family and the staff.

Another beauty. Photo by me

A country car the staff used to bring the luggage from the train station.

Photo by me

And cars for all occasions.

Photo by me

For once, my Beloved Brit was speechless

Photo by me

Solicitor or Barrister?

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I was called for jury duty this week, so it got me thinking about the legal system in the UK. You don’t see nearly as many courtroom dramas on the English tellie as you do in America.  Is it because they are not as litigious as we Americans?  Or perhaps their legal system just doesn’t have the same sort of drama that our law firms and courtrooms do?  It’s all so complicated, but I decided to try to make some sort of sense of it. Here we go.

The only cinema reference I can easily recall of a legal character in Great Britain is the competent but befuddled Archie in “A Fish called Wanda”. Is this the true picture?

There are three distinct legal jurisdictions in Great Britain…England and Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Each has its own distinct system of justice.

I love that English law is a rather artful form, and is based on the principles of common law. The law was developed by judges in the court system who listened to all the facts, and then made judgement based on statute, precedent and common sense. Makes sense to me. As common sense adds to the decisions, more precedents are formed to base new decisions on.  It is all very fluid, but controlled.

In the early centuries, the judges were responsible for adapting the Writ system for everyday needs, but as Parliament developed, legislation gradually took the place of judges setting the rules. Today, generally speaking, judges must follow the rules, rather than be too innovative.

Middlesex Guildhall is home to the Supreme Court of the United Kingdom

As in the United States, The Supreme Court is the highest Court in the land for both criminal and civil appeal cases in England, Wales and Northern Ireland and any decision it makes is binding on every other court in the same jurisdiction and often has persuasive power over its other jurisdictions. Unlike in America, it is not totally separate from government.  The House of Lords is the court of highest appeal. However, the House’s judicial duties are quite separate from its legislative duties.  Cases are heard by up to 13 senior judges known as Law Lords.

Scottish Parliament. From Wikipedia.

In America, we have lawyers who might be a defense attorney, prosecutor or a lawyer in a civil case.  In Britain, they have solicitors, who pretty much represent the legal needs of the citizen, and barristers. Barristers are the ones with the wigs like Archie, who take the cases to civil or criminal courts.

Royal Courts of Justice, London

Both legal systems presume innocence until proven guilty and give the accused the right to face their accuser. But there are also some major differences between English Common Law and The American Legal System.

English Law evolved over time based on circumstances and judgements. Precedents are key.  In the past, religious advocacy determined the direction of the English courts.  This has now changed in modern times.  In America judges were appointed or elected by politics–even to the Supreme Court.

Parliament House in Edinburgh. Wikipedia

The U.S. has an Attorney-General in charge of the legal system in the Executive Branch, as well as the Supreme Court and Federal Courts.  In Britain the Home Secretary who has overall responsibility for the criminal justice system in England and Wales and for advising the Queen on the exercise of the royal prerogative of mercy to pardon a person convicted of a crime. In America, the President has the power to pardon.

In the UK the Queen has the power to pardon. In the US, the power belongs to the President. President Reagan and Queen Elizabeth in 1982. Photo courtesy of Reagan Library, from Wikipedia.

The biggest difference of the two legal systems is perhaps that in the U.S.,the Judiciary has control over its own actions. It is the Constitution that supposedly controls the judiciary’s actions, and therefore is not subservient to the executive or legislative branches of government. In Britain, the judiciary is connected to Parliament.

The Houses of Parliament, London. Photo by me

In the U.S., there is trial by jury composed of one’s peers, and jurors are chosen  by a willingness of the two sides to agree on who shall be chosen, and who would be excused.  In Britain the jury is not chosen by the Crown, or the Queen’s Counsel. They are randomly selected by the Jury Central Summoning Bureau from the electoral register. They are then compelled to serve, unless they have compelling evidence why serving would be inconvenient. Even then, it is very difficult to have their service deferred. In both countries no one serving on a jury is supposed to have any connection with the case

The greatest similarity between the two, is that they evolved over time, and change does not come quickly  — evolution rather than revolution. It all is so complex and still somewhat baffling.  I’ve done my amateur best to make some sense of it, but all I know is, I am glad both countries have the free systems that we do.

Going Up?

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One of the joys of travelling in Great Britain is the unique individuality of accommodations.  And with this comes those narrow steep stairs that seem to be standard in the more historic Inns. I know I have moaned before about the lack of elevators, and the necessity of dragging luggage up narrow staircases.

A narrow, steep staircase in Broadway in the Cotswolds. No elevators at all! Photo by me.

But as much as I grow weary of them, I must admit after a short time traveling in cookie cutter hotels with large modern elevators in the U.S., I almost miss the charm of those staircases.

This staircase might make you cry if it wasn’t so beautiful…the club where I stayed in London. Photo by me

The staircases take on a personality all their own, and as much as I dread them, it wouldn’t be an England without that challenge.

Even outside the yacht club in Burnham-on-Crouch in England, the steps can be treacherous but lovely. Photo by me

Where Kate Met Wills

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We went to St. Andrews for a sunny afternoon visit on our way out of Scotland last summer and it truly is a lovely university town.  It was jam-packed with students on a warm day (by Scottish standards), and we wandered up and down the streets looking for a spot for lunch.

The students were all out enjoying the sunshine. Photo by me.

I couldn’t help but think of the well-publicised relationship between Catherine, a “commoner” and William, the future King of Great Britain, starting in this very typical collegiate environment.  It seemed the natural place for it all to have begun. Seeing shots of their Asian Diamond Jubilee Tour this past week (they’re on their way home now), it’s hard to believe it all started as a college romance.

St. Andrews in Scotland — home to past and future kings. Photo by me

As My Beloved Brit and I turned a corner looking for a spot to have a sandwich, I noticed the sign in a window across the street, “Where Kate Met Wills…for coffee”, and thought the ghosts of romance past will linger on in this town for decades. I’m sure they look with fond memories at the town that allowed them some level of privacy as they got to know each other.

The coffee shop in St. Andrews where Kate and Wills hung out…so they say. Photo by me.

The Flower Box

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Everywhere we went in Great Britain on our travels there was a great profusion of flower boxes.

A perfect window dressing. Photo by me

From the simplest to the most elaborate they were everywhere.

A creative flower display in Fowey, Cornwall, England on the southwest coast. Photo by me

The English love their gardens and if they don’t have a bit of land to plant in they will create a plot to hang on a wall, …

Like a special hat over the doorway, these bright red geraniums decorate a building in Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex. Photo by me

…grace a pub in London,

Happy hour on a Friday afternoon made happier by the flowers over head. Photo by me

or swing from a doorway.

A flower basket at the front door. Photo by me

I think they get their inspiration from the rock walls nearby.  With all the rain, flowers grow anywhere. It really is special to see.

Flowers on the cliff walls. Photo by me

 

 

An Old Favorite — Broadway

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We try to come to England every few years, and when we do we love to discover new hidden gems that we haven’t seen before.  But there are still old favorites that warrant a revisit. I love going back again and again.

Broadway in the Cotswolds, a couple of hours outside of London. Photo by me

One of these special places is Broadway in the Cotswolds.

I think this was the first village I ever visited on my own outside of London many years ago, and I have been a couple of times since with My Beloved Brit.  But the weather was so perfect this past spring when we were in the area that we decided it was time to revisit.  It did not disappoint.

The yellow stone is so distinctive to this area, and the entire high street is lined with them. photo by me

We were lucky enough to get a room for a night at our favorite hotel, The Broadway, an old half-timbered stone property from the 16th century that has retained its historic style.

The half-timbered Broadway Hotel. The perfect country retreat. photo by me.

And for this visit, we saw that they had done a complete refurbishment that was stunning.  They managed to bring a contemporary design twist to the interior without losing the sense of tradition in the hotel at the center of the town green.

The pub in the hotel picks up the country theme with modern design twists. photo by me

We loved it, and decided to stick around and dine in the pub after a walk through town to renew our old acquaintance.

The High Street in Broadway from the green. photo by me.

A very special place.  I am sure we’ll return.

 

 

 

Topiary

There was a great excitement at the Chelsea Flower Show in London this past May about the use of topiary in landscaping. A classic element of gardening had made a stunning reappearance at the show, and it made me aware how much the feature is used in British gardens.

As we drove around we did notice the most amazing shrubbery…

A long shaped hedge at Penshurst Place. Photo By me.

…clipped and trained in the most wonderful, fanciful shapes.

Outside a castle in Scotland. Photo by me

I can’t image the amount of time and care that goes in to creating and keeping these lovely sculptures alive and in trim.

Topiary in Scotland. Photo by me.

But the effort is greatly appreciated…even the most simple.

Simple topiary at Sandringham at the gates to the old stables. Photo by me

I have started looking for them, and comparing their beautiful shapes. It’s great to know they can survive even in these modern times when something that might take years to accomplish seems less popular. With topiary, patience is definitely a virtue

A whimsical bush in Broadway, The Cotswolds. Photo by me

I love the artistic, sculptural quality of them.

I love how this mimics the stone. Photo by me

And the surprise of seeing these fabulous shapes when you least expect them. The English love their gardens and are willing to spend hours on achieving great beauty. And we love discovering them.

Clipped foliage borders the lawn at Houghton Hall. Photo by me.

End of Summer

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Seems like summer has flown by, and now it’s coming to an end.  Burnham Week is ending in England, Labor Day is Monday, the kids have gone back to school, I am back in the studio working and hurricane news floods the forecasts.

The park near the marina in Burnham-on-Crouch on a sunny summer day. Photo by me.

We are already talking about next summer in England, but in a few months, the boats will have to be put up for the winter, and the sailors will have to be content to sit at the pub and tell tales of last summer’s races. I think that has already begun.

Boats in Burnham. Photo by me.

Ye Olde White Harte Inn

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When you are traveling, it is always lovely to come back to a place that you have stayed before, and find welcoming each and every time.  When we are in Burnham-on-Crouch, My Beloved Brit’s favorite sailing spot for decades, we stay on the seafront at The White Harte. In honor of Burnham Week this week, I thought it was the perfect time to re-visit an old favorite.

The White Harte on the seawall side of Burnham-on-Crouch. Photo by me.

The White Harte is located on the “seawall” facing the River Crouch, with easy access to the yacht clubs, restaurants and old friends who live in town.

The front door of The White Harte, “G. J.Lewis, licensed to sell Beer, Wines, Spirits & Tobacco. Licensed in pursuance of Act of Parliament for Music & Dancing.” Photo by me

On our trip this year we were able to reserve our favorite room, #6, and were pleased to find that it had been newly refreshed with classic floral drapes, and new carpet.  The room is on the back of the inn facing towards the high street rather than the seafront, but it is roomy and can accommodate our massive amount of luggage–and it is only one flight of steps up from the parking area, so easier to haul the luggage to the room.

Almost all the comforts of home, room #6 at The White Harte. Photo by me

One of the best parts of our stay is the full English breakfast in the dining room that looks out on the seafront walk.

Outside the front door of the old inn–the seawall is the perfect place to gather if the sun comes out. Photo by me.

So as we eat our breakfast, we can watch the dog walkers and the odd boats sail out for an early morning move up the river.

My Beloved Brit managed to get a full English breakfast with sausage and bacon, almost every morning. I loved watching early morning walkers along the sea wall. Photo by me.

There is an active pub downstairs from our room…

A corner of the White Harte’s pub, a favorite gathering place in town. Photo by me.

…where most evenings you can find a friendly face to share a pint with and catch up on the latest “dock talk”, the grapevine of information that constantly runs through Burnham.

The pub downstairs from our room. It’s quiet in the morning, but by lunch it comes alive. Photo by me.

Of course, as the saying goes, what starts at one end of the seawall changes considerably by the time it gets to the other end, but it still keeps the lines of communications open.

The seawall stretches from one end of town to the other and is a great place to run in to friends and find out the last news…”dock talk”. Photo by me.

MBB has known John Lewis, the inn’s proprietor, for many years, and his father before him. I love Burnham.  It is like coming home for me, and with the sailing involved and the old familiar faces, it’s even a better stop for MBB.